Setting off in May

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We left  home with rude haste following the choral concert that Mo had taken part in, and after all the rehearsals, the build up and the performance, the music lingers in the mind for several days!

Arriving at Sukosan on Sunday May 12th we had half a day to check all the sea cocks and do last minute jobs.  Deja Vu was launched on Monday 13th May. The usual formalities of registration were completed in Zadar, the shopping done, so we freed our lines midday on Tuesday 14th May and headed north.

North from Sukosan
Heading north from Sukosan

We motored into a headwind to gain some distance then sailed the last few miles into a  tiny village of Lucina on Molat that boasted a good harbour wall to tie up to. The sailing season has not yet got going,  so it was quiet and the mooring free. We enjoyed a pleasant stroll around the seemingly deserted village, found a war memorial that dominated the centre square and we were most impressed by the very lush vegetable gardens we saw everywhere.  That night we ate on board, but did support the local economy by visiting the adjacent bar!

War memorial in Lucina
War memorial in Lucina
Productive gardens in Lucina on Molat
Productive gardens in Lucina
Deja Vu alongside in Lucina
Deja Vu alongside in Lucina on Molat

With bad weather forecast for Wednesday night and Thursday we pressed on, on Wednesday, travelling 30 miles with the cruising chute set to Mali Losinj. The weather was fair and rather warm so we make the most of the sunshine and stretched out as the boat sailed past the islands of Molat, Ist, Premuda and Ilovik to Losinj.

Cruising chute run to Losinj
Cruisng chute run to Losinj

We are no strangers to this island having visited it twice last year, so knowing the ropes, we anchored up in a small bay for a swim and a shower before ending up in the town marina late afternoon. The water temperature was 19 degreees, and Nigel braved a reasonable swim, but Mo deemed it far too cold for more than a body dip! A familiar stroll around the pretty town revealed a lot of construction work that has been done to improve the harbour wall, and, most importantly, new facilities in the form of a shower block for us sailors!

Mali Losinj town marina
Arrival at Mali Losinj town marina
Mo enjouying a warm evening
Mo enjoying a warm evening
Looking across to the town
Looking across to the town

As forecast, strong gales came through Wednesday night and are blowing hard this Thursday morning as I write.  In the shelter of the harbour our anemometer has logged 40 knots of wind, so much more out at sea, coupled with high seas. Happy to be safely tied up here, we shall probably have a lazy day on board, may catch up with some reading!

Rain and gales on Thursday
Rain and gales on Thursday

We expect to be here until Saturday when it looks like we may have a weather window to continue north to the Istrian peninsular. More on that next time.

April

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We enjoyed a warm spell as we set to work getting Deja Vu ready for the 2013 season.

Deja Vu under wraps in April
Deja Vu under wraps in April

The propeller had not been set up correctly last year, so Mo stripped, cleaned and greased it and assisted with the very technical reassembly required to set the pitch just right.

Re setting the proeller
Re setting the propeller

The heads needed some attention, so new hoses were fitted.

Niigel fixing new hoses
Nigel fixing new hoses

A new solar panel was wired in and what a challenge that was! Sunbeam are very good at making wiring changes very difficult and it was a triumph of lateral thinking that brought success to that project. The new panel is flexible so it is likely to be mounted in a variety of places to give us the trickle battery charge that we need .

A visit to Kod Guste and Josos, meeting up with friends John and Paul, made the 4 working days very enjoyable and productive!

The plan for April & May 2013

April 2013 and planning is underway for this year’s sailing trip. We are looking forward to escaping the extreme cold that has ravaged the UK through March and still shows no sign of lettng up. Croatia may not be much better, but it can’t be any worse! We fly out on April 11th for a 4 day maintenance trip and an opportunity to visit the local supermarkets to stock the boat. Mo has been given the task of cleaning up the engine and repainting it. This is likely to mean her morphing into very small spaces which may not agree with the bad back that has plagued her for several months. She is ever hopeful that the intense physio and exercise program she has been undertaking will have prepared her for all of this. One thing has become clear that once on board and sailing, exercise must be taken very seriously – something our more mature years has made very necessary!

Nigel has the skilled tasks of wiring new electrical kit, replacing one of the cabin windows, servicing the heads,  looking to fit a foot pump so that we can get water if the electric pump ever fails and he has other plans which Mo is sure will involve removing the headlining in all of the cabins. Not something to look forward to and it may mean that they decamp into Joso’s, the local hotel, for the duration.

The plan so far is to rejoin Deja Vu II mid-May, after the Choir concert Mo is taking part in, and head north to Istria. We have arranged to meet up with Sharon and Peter Matthews in Pula on May 21st  and introduce them to the delights of sailing!  We will head north to Slovenia and then on to Trieste in Italy, where we leave Deja Vu in the safe hands of the Sunbeam yard for a rigging refit.   Whilst that is being done, we will head back home in early June, when we are looking forward to going to our god daughter, Emma’s wedding.

 

 

Zut, birthday and heading for home

We left Iz on Tuesday 25th September in brilliant sunshine with little wind and motored south towards the island of Zut, calling in on the port of Sali on Dugi Otok, just to take a look. Strong South Easterlies were forecast and Sali, open to the south, would not have been an ideal choice to seek shelter on this occasion. But it looked like a pleasant enough town and we will certainly stop there to explore another time.

Sali
A glimpse of Sali on Dugi Otok

The island of Zut has an isolated marina, no village but a couple of restaurants with visitor pontoons to tie up to. Not much to do here other than swim and walk, which we did as weather permitted.

Zut
Zut Marina & restaurants

We spent 2 days here whilst the strong winds blew through, but as we had Nigel’s birthday to celebrate, we made the best of our time! One day on a marina buoy and one day on a restaurant pontoon in the most sheltered part of the bay. We climbed to the highest point around, risking getting blown away, but were rewarded with great views of the Kornati islands to the west.

Nigel's birthday morning swim
Nigel's birthday morning swim
Deja Vu on Zut
Deja Vu on Restaurant Sandra pontoon, Zut
Birthday drinks
Birthday drinks at Restaurant Sandra
Blown Away!
Blown Away!
View from the top, west to Kornati islands
View from the top, west to Kornati islands

As the winds were forecast to moderate on Friday 28th we sailed 12 miles to Biograd. We still had nearly 30 knots of wind and were well reefed for the beat south alongside the island of Pasman.

There seems to be a pattern here of a few windy days followed by one of calm and the next day was no exception. We had to motor north towards Sukosan and we decided to spend our last night ‘at sea’ at anchor off a tiny island off the town of Prekko on Uglan. We went ashore and walked around the island which was home to the monastery of St Paul. It had beautifully tended gardens which looked like Eden, with fig trees, vines, pomegranates, lemons and lots of vegetables growing profusely.

Monastery island off Prekko
Island off Prekko
Miniature in the monastery grounds
Miniature in the Monastery grounds

Now we are back in our Marina at Sukosan. 3 days to clean up, take the sails off and do all the usual chores and maintenance.

This September we have been as far north as Slovenia. In 4 weeks we have travelled 373 sea miles, and we have experienced more unsettled weather and strong wind conditions than is normal for this time of the year!  No real complaints though. Deja Vu II has looked after us well and we have been extraordinarily lucky to have had a great time with good company and trips to some really lovely and interesting places.

With Deja Vu II put to bed for the winter, we look forward now to going home. We fly back on October 3rd.

See you soon, we hope!

Silba, Bribinj & Iz

It was an unusually cold wind, but a sunny day, Friday 21st September, when we arrived at the Bay of St Ante on Silba. We were all alone in a bay littered with mooring buoys, it was quite eerie, and there was only a reef separating us from the open sea. We went ashore in the dinghy and walked the 2 miles into the village..it took exactly 24 minutes as the boatman we met had told us it would.

Walking on Silba
Walking on Silba
In the village on Silba
Refreshments in the village on Silba
Deja Vu II in St Ante bay
Deja Vu II alone in St Ante Bay

We cooked on board. It was a lovely sunset, a calm and very dark night with no light pollution displaying a heaven full of stars! Quite cold.

Nightfall off Silba
Nightfall off Silba
Supper St Ante Bay
Supper aboard in St Ante Bay

We woke to a strong southerly wind, coming from the direction we wanted to go, and rough seas. A beat it was for the first couple of hours and then we motored through the narrow gap north of the island of Molat to turn south again towards Dugi Otok. We were surprised that many mooring buoys had been removed from sheltered bays..it was beginning to feel like the end of the season!

We fetched up in Bribinj, a favourite village affording shelter on Dugi Otok. Once again it was deserted. We picked up a buoy for the night, cooked on board and then enjoyed a warm lazy morning on Sunday 23rd before heading off to the island of Iz. It is thankfully much warmer now..about 25 degrees C.

Veli Iz
Veli Iz
Other boats!
Other boats!

People at last! We found plenty of charter boats here in this pretty town, in the small marina, and here we stayed through Monday as there was too much wind from the south to contemplate travelling south.

Captain Nigel on Iz
Captain Nigel on Iz

Another chance to get the bikes out and explore. We cycled a couple of miles along the coastal walkway to Drage and back into the headwind!

Drage
Drage
Strong southerly winds
Strong southerly winds

A calmer day is promised for Tuesday when we are planning to go south to the island of Zut.

Mali Losinj

The island of Losinj is connected to the larger island of Cres by a bridge and they lie south east of the Istrian peninsula. We had arrived at the main town on Losinj, namely Mali Losinj to weather the next storm.

Mali Losinj
Mali Losinj

This provided an opportunity to get the bikes out and, as always, we managed to discover a bit more about the area. We took the coast path that hugged the inner bay of the coastal isthmus and found many derelict buildings probably of a WW11 era. More interestingly Nigel explored, as best he could with a small key ring light, a labyrinth of tunnels and chambers that seemed to wind right through the hill to the other side. He went in one tunnel and emerged from another, taking me by surprise!

Tunnels
Tunnels into hillside

We crossed the hill more conventionally by road, leaving behind the main harbour, windswept by the strong North Easterlies, passing huge derelict mansions, once so grand, and we descended on the other side to the fully sheltered bay of Cikat.

Des Res - derelict
Des Res - derelict

We were surprised to find here a major holiday resort with elegant hotels for elderly folk at one end and camper vans and tents for families and younger folk at the other.

Cikat
Cycling round Cikat

It was like stepping into another world – it was great to have the bikes and be able to explore a little further afield.

On Friday 21st September we left Mali Losinj and headed south, the direction of home.  Look what we sailed past!

Schooner
Schooner setting sails

 

Porec and leaving Istria

Departing from Slovenia on Sunday 16th September, our first stop Porec, about half way down the Istrian Peninusular, where we checked back into Croatia. We chose to pick up a buoy so that we could all swim in the afternoon sun and then at 6pm we inflated the dingy and went ashore. It was another beautiful Venetian town with narrow streets, beautiful old church, shining cobbles that had been trodden for centuries, but with plenty of tourist shops, cafes and bars. It has been getting cooler in the evenings, so we hurried a quick drink in a bar atop one of the old towers, picked up some take away pizzas and then timed our journey back to the boat hoping to enjoy them hot. It took 19 minutes pizza oven to plate, not bad and very delicious they were!

Landing in Porec
Landing in Porec
Porec old town
Porec old town
Christian Basilica of Bishop Euphrasius
Christian Basilica of Bishop Euphrasius
Old town
Old town
Old town
Old town
In Porec
Mo, Sue and Dick atop the tower

Monday was to be Sue and Dick’s last full day and it dawned sunny and warm. We sailed south with the cruising chute, past Pula to Veruda where we tied up in the Marina there.

Plain sailing with the chute
Plain sailing with the chute

Sue and Dick departed on Tuesday 18th in a taxi heading for Pula town so they could see the sights there before flying Pula to Stansted and then driving all the way back to Pembrokeshire. Forseeing another breakdown in the weather in the North Adriatic, we slipped lines same day and sailed, again with the cruising chute, down towards Mali Losinj where we planned to weather out the next Bora. We overnighted in the most peaceful anchorage on the island of Unije, woke to heavy cloud and increasing winds, so headed for the security of Mali Losinj town.

Anchorage on Unije
View south from anchorage on Unije

Here we are now safely tied up, catching up on the chores of cleaning and washing, waiting for the rain to stop, the winds to moderate before we continue on our journey back towards our home port of Sukosan.

Next stop Slovenia

Friday 14th September, leaving Rovinj at noon, we embarked on our voyage north to Novigrad, some 15 miles distant.

Leaving Rovinj
Leaving Rovinj

Sailing gently for the first 5 miles, our complacency was soon shattered as we found the wind and endured a roller coaster ride beating into a turbulent sea with 30 knots of true wind on the nose. Needless to say our arrival at Novigrad was welcome and we were soon ashore exploring the small and quiet town. We found a delightful wine emporium which dispensed the local wine in large plastic bottles. We returned to the boat heavy laden with white and red wines filled into plastic bottles from a barrel which turned out to be excellent! Great sunset too.

Wine emporium
Wine Emporium
Sunset at Novigrad
Sunset at Novigrad

Saturday 15th we checked out of Croatia and motored north to Piran in Slovenia in windless conditions, arriving in time for lunch on board. Apart from being interested in the Slovenian coast, Nigel and Mo needed to declare another departure from Croatia, to conform with customs requirements, and Slovenia was just close enough to make this an obvious and easy option.

After clearing the immigrations formalities as we had now entered the EU we set off to explore the town.  The main claim to fame appears to be Tartini, 17th century composer, violinist and general good bloke.  The centre of the town is Tartini square which is large, surrounded by magnificent Venetian style buildings and a floor of polished stone.

Tartini Square Piran
Tartini Square Piran

Moving ever upwards we climbed to the top of the town t see the old fortifications and enjoy magnificent views back over the town and Croatia to the South and Italy (Trieste) to the North.

Rooftops of Piran
Rooftops of Piran

We descended via the church which sports a campanile that is a copy of the one in St Marks square in Venice.  There was a wedding in progress and we peeped in just in time to hear a class rendition of Ave Maria by what sounded like a professional singer.

Piran harbour
Piran Harbour

In the evening we dined in an excellent restaurant and then moved on to a bar which had live music. The performer was a capable one-man group, assisted by Yamaha.  His range of music was brilliant and we were riveted for a couple of hours, returning to the boat at past midnight.  Unfortunately our neighbours returned later and continued to talk and drink until dawn, disturbing our beauty sleep.

Rovinj

Sue and Dick, Nigel’s sister and husband, arrived on Tuesday 11th, a lovely sunny day. We had planned a 2 day stopover here at Rovinj, to weather out the storm promised for the following day.

Sue and Dick arrive
Sue and Dick arrive in Rovinj Marina
Waterfront
The waterfront

We all enjoyed exploring the town during Wednesday. The old town rises up on a peninsular with the church of St Euphemia at its crown and from there we explored the tangle of narrow streets carpeted with well worn and very uneven marble blocks and cobbles.

North side of Rovinj old town
North side of Rovinj old town
St Euphemia
Church of St Euphemia
Cobbled streets
Cobbled streets
Cafe - on the steps
Cafe..on the steps

Billed as being one of Croatia’s magical places, we were not disappointed to discover a charming old town with a fun and friendly atmosphere.  The strong Italian influence was evident not only in the 18th century architecture, but also in the shops and restaurants..loads of lovely shoes and pasta! We had a great lunch.

Aside from the usual tourist shops we found a fascinating range of real art and craft galleries in all sorts of unusual and surprising places.

shops down unusual side alleys
Shops down attractive side streets

Nigel was soon at the limit of retail endurance, so we headed back to batten down the hatches for the impending storm. What a good move that was.

By 8pm we were ravaged by a severe storm that lasted all night, so it was most definitely supper on board!  As the winds increased to over 50knots Nigel reinforced all the lines and we tried to sleep. It was like being in a washing machine despite being tied up inside the Marina!

Thursday dawned wet and cold, so books were read, the town was revisited and we found the most delightful Istrian restaurant for a very long lunch.

Rain in Rovinj
Rain in Rovinj
Sue and Dick
Getting wet in Rovinj..worse than Wales!
Finding the Guinness bar
Finding the Guinness bar

We all have our fingers crossed for some improvement tomorrow.

Sundays in Croatia

I do like Sundays in Croatia..and I was reminded of this on 9th as we woke in Pula Marina to the pealing of chuch bells. They start in earnest at 6am and go on throughout the day.  It really is quite compelling.

Hourly church bells
Hourly church bells

Shops are mostly shut and churches are full of local people of all ages.

I found out recently that Croatia has 12 national holidays including Easter and Christmas when all public services are closed. The ones that caught my interest were: 22nd June, Day of the Antifacist Struggle,

October 8th Independence Day

and 5th August, National Gratitude Day!

There is always a lot to learn from other people and customs.