Deja Vu II’s last voyage Part 1 – Rab at last!

Another adventure began for Deja Vu II on Tuesday July 1st. We were heading off for her last voyage to St Giorgio in Italy, a distance of about 150 miles, where we are due to rest her up on July 26th. With four weeks ahead to cover the distance we have decided to travel north slowly and visit some islands that have previously eluded us.

Rab has been on our wish list since 2008, but time and winds have prevented us in past years, so now we can await the right conditions to venture up towards the infamous Velebit Channel where Rab sits guarding its northern entrance.

We stopped en route in Molat for a beautiful sunlit evening and then again on Silba, just 15 miles further north. Next stop Ilovik, an island at the foot of Losinj separated from Sv Petar Island by a narrow channel in which we moored up for a windy night. This became our setting off point for Rab, only 20 miles to the North West. Light winds had us motoring, but better too little than too much in these waters!

View from Molat
View of Molat
Molat
Village on Molat
Ilovik
Ilovik
Ilovik
Around Ilovik

 

Rab sits just under the Velebit mountains, a coastal fringe of the high Dipara mountains which run as a backbone north to south in Croatia.  Rab also acts like a plug in the northern end of the infamous Velebit channel, renowned for its very strong winds. Not a place for sailors and we spotted few yachts there despite the benign conditions.

Approaching Rab
Approaching Rab
Rab town
First view of Rab town
Velebit
Velebit Channel under the mountains

 

Our first sight of Rab town was impressive, three towering churches flanked the old coastal approach and we looked forward to exploring later on. The marina was deserted when we arrived but did start to fill with mostly motor boats. You could count the masted boats on one hand, clearly this island does not attract many yachts!

Rab dates back to Roman times and the town is laid out in Roman style with a Lower Street, Middle Street and Upper Street which we enjoyed exploring. Since those days it has had many cultures influencing it from the Byzantines, Venetians, Hungarians to the current Croatians. The old town sits on a peninsular with the harbour to one side,  a sheltered bay to the other.  Rab is mostly a holiday and tourist destination with busy bars, restaurants and markets, rather too many for our taste. We sailed around the island from the south to the northern bay of Kamporska Draga and saw plenty of pretty south facing bays and anchorages.

Rab town
Around Rab town
Rab
Rooftops of Rab town
Harbour
Rab harbour
Rab
From the Upper Way looking north

Leaving Rab on Sunday 5th July we headed for Cres and en route we were entertained by a lone dolphin swimming with a smile in our bow wave. Another unusual natural sight was that of a few dozen small cormorants just hanging about in a circle in the sea. It must have been the nursery! On Cres we found the idyllic bay of Kolorat, well sheltered from most weathers. We were expecting an anchorage, according to the pilot books, but this has now become a buoyed concession, so fees were due!

Kolorat
After the swim in Kolorat
Kolorat
Sunset at Kolorat

Having enjoyed a few settled days, the forecast for the next few days, true to form, is well into decline with storms and very strong winds coming our way. With the pressure plunging we have decided to hang out in Mali Losinj, a well sheltered and  buzzing little town, until the worst passes. Should be able to upload this blog on the 8th or 9th July and will try to make some calls whilst near the internet cafes.

Mali Losinj
A few days await us at Mali Losinj

Around Zadar for a week with old friends

Nigel met Brian in 1973, they were fellow graduates starting work in the Esso refinery in Fawley. We have been friends with Brian and Michele for over 40 years and it was a great pleasure to welcome them on board for a week sailing around Zadar and it’s neighbouring islands. We had a great week, sailed about 120 miles, visited at least 5 different islands and had a delightful rendezvous with the crew of MaXian. Max, Celia, Sheena and Tony entertained us to drinks and supper on board. This trip was Michele’s first sailing experience and in spite of 20knot winds on the nose most afternoons, she survived very well and, we hope, enjoyed it. Brian certainly did. He is a keen and willing sailor and was soon number one crew as Mo was nursing a bruised shoulder. The story of our week is told in pictures below!

water tanker at molat
Water tanker close to boats on quay at Molat
Deja Vu and water tanker
A bit close for comfort!
On Maxian
Supper on Maxian in Veli Rat on Dugi Otok. Michele, Celia, Max, Sheena, Mo, Brian, Tony. Nigel was the photographer!
Apres sail
Nigel and Brian apres sail
Dugi Otok
Walking on Dugi Otok
Iz
Island of Iz
Brian
Brian at home on the helm
Michele
Michele at home on the rail
Sailing
En route to Zut
Kornat
View back over the Kornati Islands
michele
We’ll make a sailor of Michele yet!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Across Europe by road

With Deja Vu back in Sukosan, she was lifted out onto her cradle whilst we took a week out to make the journey home to collect the car. Four days of gardening convinced us it was time to set off again and our plan was to take the car across Europe to Sukosan with a load of gear that we needed to deliver. Crossing the channel from Dover we drove for 2 to 3 hours to Namur in Belgium which was to be  our first stop. We stayed in a hotel right next to the casino, which on a Monday night was not much of a disturbance! There was a cold northerly wind blowing so our walking tour of Namur old town turned into a bit of a scurry for a cosy bar! It was however an attractive town with old fortifications around a castle and houses, slightly reminiscent of the Tower of London. The river Meuse sliced the town in two and more modern riverside apartment blocks stood reasonably sympathetically alongside the older houses.

Nigel had never been to Luxembourg and as he has visited every other European country we could not pass up the opportunity to deviate from our more direct route to visit this tiny Duchy to complete Nigel’s European country visits. We parked up in the city in spite of the optimistic car park signposts petering out at the last and most vital moment. The city sits astride a huge natural ravine with fine bridges and aqueducts spanning a very green parkland area.

Luxembourg
Ravine in central Luxembourg
Luxembourg
Typical architecture in Luxembourg
Luxembourg
Statue in Luxembourg

There were plenty of cobbled pedestrian streets, grand  buildings and a lovely catherdral. Sadly we were rather underdressed for the lunchtime cocktail party being hosted in the grounds of the British Embassy and we had to pass by and decline the champagne on offer! However we did take a picture of one of the guests who bore a striking resemblance to General de Gaulle!

British Embassy guests
Guests arriving at the British Embassy

Our onward journey to Stuttgart took us through some magnificent countryside. We drove off the motorway into the Northern Alsace area and the Vosges mountains. Timber framed houses festooned with lots of geraniums was very typical.

Northern Alsace
Northern Alsace

Our next overnight stop was in a small hotel just to the south of the city of Stuttgart so we would be well placed to take some faster routes the next day to take us past Munich to Salzburg.

Fiona, our in-car sat nav took us on the main German autoroutes and we made great progress until about 100km from Munich Fiona advised us of ‘blockages ahead’. The motorway was at a standstill so we took to the country routes once again. It was slower going but such a treat. The sun was shining brightly and we both enjoyed the wide expanse of beautiful undulating German countryside and seeing some very local rural agriculture. We stopped for a picnic!

Vosges
Scenery in the German countryside
Picnic spot
Picnic spot

 

We stayed just outside Salzburg but took a walk up through the forest from the village we were staying in to a magfincent view point, St Mary Plain, from where Salzburg stretched out at our feet. It was breathtaking and The Sound of Music seemed very much alive! St Mary Plain, with its adjacent monastery was quite a sight too, inside and out! Inside there were potted trees set amongst the very opulent catholic adornments.

St Mary Plain
St Mary Plain Salzburg
St Mary Plain
Inside St Mary Plain
Salzburg
View over Salzburg

 

Thursday 19th June and the day to visit the boat builders, Sunbeam, at Matsee, just 30km from where we stayed near Salzburg. This was our second visit to Matsee and we were reminded just what a magnificent ‘chocolate box’ Austrian mountain town it was! Even though it was a national holiday in Austria we were given an interesting tour of the factory to see the new Deja Vu in her infancy but we were sorry not to meet with the production team.

Matsee
View over Matsee

From Salzburg we travelled through the Alps via the pretty town of Werfen, into Slovenia and then onto the Croatian motorways to Sukosan.

Werfen
View from Werfen

We had travelled 2000km in 4 days of driving. Deja Vu II was just as we had left her 10 days earlier and on Saturday 21st June she was re-launched for the next sailing experiences.

A whistle stop tour of the Kornati islands with Pam and Alan

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Having had their fill of waterfalls and Nigel’s famous seafood spaghetti, Pam and Alan were up for a trip out to the Kornati Islands. The wind was, as ever, on the nose, wherever we decided to go. We stopped conveniently at Vodice overnight before setting off for the southern tip of the Kornati islands. The wind was not in our favour and so the decision was made to divert north on a close reach to the island of Zut, with a view to entering the Kornati chain from the top. We stopped on a buoy on Zut for the night.

racing fleet
Racing fleet we passed en route

The next day we ventured through the narrow channel heading for Lake Telascica and another overnight buoy. From here we went ashore to walk alongside the inland lake and then up to view the magnificent and unusual (for Croatia) cliffs!

Lake Telascica
Lake Telascica
Cliffs
The cliffs

 Next day, with plenty of wind, we sailed under the jib only down the Kornati chain to Vrluje where we moored up alongside at Konoba Robinson. We had visited this place before and been greeted by a fine and very jolly old gentleman, the maitre d’ . We had learned that sadly he had died in a boating incident and his business partner was now running the establishment. The service and food did not disappoint and we ate one of the best St Pierre fish ever! We had climbed the hill opposite to give us an appetite and from the top there were wonderful affording views north and south up the Kornati channel. It was stunning. We were on the top of the world!

Deja vu
Deja Vu alongside at Konoba Robinson
Hill
The hill we climbed from Vrulje
Vrulje
View as we climbed the hill at Vrulje
View north
View looking north
Pam and Alan
Pam and Alan at the top
Nigel and Mo
Nigel and Mo at the top!

The time was nigh to begin our return journey and the winds dictated that we retrace our steps and sail from the island of Zut, south to the bottom of Pasman Island and round to Biograd on the mainland. All was well, gentle winds, a lunchtime anchorage, a fast reach across to Pasman and then we hit nearly 30knots to beat up the Pasman channel. Arriving at Biograd was not only exciting but quite a relief! Next day home to Sukosan and we have to say farwell to Pam and Alan tomorrow. Their taxi arrives at a rude 6.30am! We have had a lovely ten days with them and enjoyed their great company. Hope they will be able to come again one day.

Hvar to Skradin with new crew. Welcome to Pam and Alan Penson.

Before leaving Stari Grad on the island of Hvar we took the bus across the island to the ancient town of Hvar to show Ken and Cathy one of the most visited places in Croatia. The bus took us via the ferry terminal where we collected more passengers from the boat that arrived from Split – you can just see it in the distance in the photo below.

Ferry terminal
Ferry terminal at Stari Grad
Hvar
Hvar town
Hvar
Hvar rooftops

Hvar was duly enjoyed and we returned to Stari Grad for a delicious Konoba supper in restaurant Jurin Podrum in the back streets of the town. Highly recommended. Our return sail to Trogir was brisk with over 20 knots of headwind (is there any other sort?) but it was exhilarating for all and we averaged over 6 knots, peaking at 7.5 knots. Sadly we had to say goodbye to Ken and Cathy as they had to pack for their long and complicated flight routings back to hot, very hot Houston. We had enjoyed their stay with us.

We had a couple of days to turn around for our next visitors, this time Pam and Alan Penson from Lymington in the UK. We sorted out the boat and decided to chill out in Vinisce for a night where we were treated to a thunderstorm, lots of rain followed by the beautiful rainbow, which I hope you can pick out in the photo below!

Vinisce rainbow
Rainbow in Vinisce

Deciding to pick Pam and Alan up in Split we did the 15 mile sail to the harbour and tied up on the harbour wall, perfect, we thought, for collecting our next crew. Alas the harbour master wanted far too much money for the mooring fee and the anchorage was too full of catamaran to be suitable, so we headed off to the marinas in the adjacent bay. Eventually we tied up in Marina Kastel, not our favourite, but it served a useful purpose and Pam and Alan were on board early the next morning.

Pam and Alan
Pam and Alan joining Deja Vu

Our journey plan for the next 10 days is to travel north from Split to Sukosan, our home port and show Pam and Alan some sailing areas in Croatia further north than they have previously explored. We hope to get out to the Kornati islands weather permitting. The weather systems are still unsettled, but it looks like they might improve during the week. Needless to say the forecast is for northerlies and westerlies!

On Sunday June 1st, wishing to escape the Marina, we did not allow Pam and Alan to unpack and, instead, whisked them off for, yes, a brisk 15 mile beat west. They are both experienced sailors so they were quite game for the blast that followed. The afternoon winds continue to be quite ferocious and this time storms were all around as well. We just managed to anchor up for an overnight stop in the shelter of Vinisce when a major storm landed right overhead, bad enough for Nigel to deploy the makeshift lightning conductor and stow the radios and phones in the oven!

Monday June 2nd dawned brighter and warmer and we continued our journey round to the pretty coastal resort of Primosten.

Primosten
Approaching Primosten

We sailed from Primosten to Sibenik and then motored up the river to the famous waterfalls at Skradin.

Up river Sibeniik to Skradin
Up river from Sibenik to Skradin
Skradin Marina
Approaching Marina at Skrakin
Skradin
View over Skradin
Skradin
Skradin looking back down river
Mo Pam and Alan
Mo, Pam and Alan
Mo and Nigel
Mo and Nigel atop in Skradin

We are there now as I write. We last visited with Tom and Faye in 2008, so as we do chores on board, Pam and Alan have gone off to  explore the Krka National Park.

Ken and Cathy’s visit

We were moored up in Marina Seget, at Trogir to await the arrival of our guests. Deja Vu was gleaming inside and out when Ken and Cathy Otto arrived at 2.30pm Saturday May 24th. Our American friends had just driven up from Dubrovnik to join us for a few days sailing, to end their three week trip to Eastern Europe from Houston, Texas.

Guests arriving
Ken and Cathy arriving in Marina Seget.

With fair winds in the forecast our route was planned to visit Brac and Hvar in the time available. It was great to have Ken and Cathy on board. Both keen to sail, Ken had grown up in a sailing family. His father had built boats and taken his sons out both in Chesapeake Bay and the Gulf of Mexico, offshore of Texas, in all sorts of weather by all accounts!  They have both enjoyed skippered sailing in the Caribbean with friends in recent years and although it had been a few years since Ken had sailed himself, he clearly knew the ropes and was soon at home on the helm.

 

Ken
Ken happy at the helm

We had a real mixed bag of sailing weather from little wind on a run to a fair breeze on the nose. We visited Lucice Bay on the south coast of Brac where from a buoy we swam and sunbathed before lighting up the BBQ for a great supper washed down with the local wine Ken and Cathy had bought on their travels in Croatia.  From Brac we sailed south again, tossing up between Vis or Stari Grad as our destination. The lack of wind favoured Stari Grad which was a new port even for Nigel and Mo. We moored up on the quay in the very pleasant town and explored the old streets, church and museum which housed some interesting Venetian paintings including ‘The Adoration of Christ’ by Tintonelli. What a treat to find so many lovely treasures in this quiet town on this lovely island!

church in stari grad
Detail on the ceiling of church in Stari Grad
Museum garden
Museum garden
Backstreets in Stari Grad
Backstreets in Stari Grad

A happy stay in Stari Grad with some great meals in the local restaurants, first Konoba Zvijezda Mora and secondly Junin Podrum, the latter being voted the best food!

Crew in Stari Grad
Crew in Stari Grad looking like American tourists
Supper in Stari Grad
Supper in Stari Grad

We spent an extra day here and took the bus across the island to visit the historic town of Hvar. Much exploring and a long lunch was much enjoyed by all. From Stari Grad we had a great beat up to Milna on Brac as we started our return journey. More on the next blog!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

First journey south May 2014

Having enjoyed a couple of days on the water in Sukosan, socialising with old friend (well  not so old!)  John from Forgiveness and new found friends Pete and Pat from Independent Feeling, the weather improved enough for us to set off on Saturday 17th May.

We motor sailed to Biograd and then set the sails for a brisk close reach down the coast of Murter to the southern most tip then round to the  Marina at Jezera.

Mo at Jezera
Mo at Jezera

Although we had visited Murter before we had not been to Jezera, so we were keen to explore this end of the island. We were rather underwhelmed by what we found in the environs of the Marina, but the highlight of our visit was meeting Norbert from the boat moored opposite us on the Marina pontoon. Norbert, from Munich, was a wonderful character with a face that told a lifetime’s worth of tales. Over a glass of wine on board Deja Vu he shared many of his stories with us and we felt as if we had stepped into his shoes and shared many good and sad times with him. We hope we might meet him again one day.

The winds remained lively and we decided to head off again the next day, now Sunday 18th May. We reefed both sails for our close reach to Sibenik and delighted in our speed, touching over 8.5knots in 20knots of apparent wind.

A brisk beat
A brisk beat
8.7 knots
8.7 knots!
Nigel
Nigel enjoying himself

Needless to say it did not take long to get to Marina Mandelina which although remote had good facilities. Recently acquired by D Marin, the same Turkish company that now owns Marina Dalmacija, our home port, we had the promise of concessionary mooring rates!

We took the taxi boat in the company of several Slovakian visitors to the main town of Sibenik and enjoyed re-acquainting ourselves with the fascinating back streets and beautiful buildings. The cathedral boasted unique architectural features including a frieze of 70 carefully sculpted heads.

Sibenik Cathedral
Detail on Sibenik Cathedral
Sibenik cathedral
Sibenik cathedral
Sibenik
Sibenik
Sibenik
Renovation opportunity in Sibenik

We especially enjoyed visiting the medicinal gardens at the monastery of St Lawrenece. The roses in the garden flanking the herbs were spectacular and had the sweetest of scents and we must find out what medicinal qualities Artichokes have!

Gardens in Sibenik
Medicinal gardens at the monastery
Artichokes
Artichokes in the medicinal garden

Unfortunately upon leaving the Marina we discoverd D Marin had withdrawn all the reciprocal concessions we had expected, so we ended up with a more costly night than expected! With the sun shining and the winds moderating we set sail for Kakan and enjoyed two very peaceful days, almost alone, in the bay where we caught up with boat polishing and reading!

Kakan
Deja Vu on Kakan

Rogoznica was our next destination where we reprovisioned and had a delightful supper in Marco’s Konoba. We met up with a delightful family from Hertfordshire and exchanged stories with Jane, Vernon and daughter Amy. It was a great pleasure to meet them.

Next stop Vinisce and another night at anchor. By this time both of us had been swimming in spite of the unexpected cold temperatures. Hope the water temperature warms up soon!

Vinisce
From anchorage in Vinisce

The time had now arrived for us to get to Trogir and prepare for the arrival of our US visitors, Ken and Cathy Otto. Previously a colleague of Nigel, Ken had meticulously planned a road trip around eastern Europe with Cathy, in the early stages of his recent retirement. We were so pleased that we were able to rendezvous and take them out sailing to a few offshore islands. More about their visit on the next blog.

First days in Croatia

Deja Vu was still under her winter cover when we arrived on Sunday 11th May and in spite of this protection, the decks were covered in a deep layer of local and saharan dust some of which seemed to have penetrated below decks. With plenty to do involving cleaning up, unpacking and installing the re-assembled anchor winch, we were busy right up until the planned launch on Tuesday 13th midday.  Boats should be on the water and Deja Vu immediately came to life again as she was scrubbed up again, equipped with her sails, sprayhood and all the other goodies that had lain sleeping all winter. Unfortunately as the boat was ready the weather took a serious turn for the worst, with Bura style strong northerly winds, rain and cold! Friends back in the UK boast of warm weather and BBQ’s; we are cowering in a mere 12degrees keeping warm on hot soups. The high pressure over Britain is forcing a series of depressions over the Mediterranean, but it does look set to change next week. Our plan is to set off on Saturday 17th May and sail  to the island of Murter, just off shore close to the port of Sibenik. Although we have visited the north of Murter a few times, we have not been into the port of Jezera in the south, which we are setting as our destination, about 25 miles south.We have a good few days to get to our rendezvous in Trogir, close to Split by 23rd May.

Getting Ready for the 2014 season

It is May 5th and our thoughts have turned to the Summer sailing season. There is always more gear to take than we expect and this year is no exception. There will be maintenance jobs to do when we reach Deja Vu in Sukosan on Sunday 11th, but we hope to launch during the follow week, provision up and, winds permitting,  set off south. We are meeting up with Ken and Kathy Otto, American friends from Nigel’s former work life, in Split towards the end of May. We look forward to some good sailing with them and showing them some of Croatia’s lovely islands.

Dubrovnik to Trogir

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We collected our additional crew on Saturday 17th August. Faye and her partner Guy arrived at the ACI Marina Dubrovnik  at about 8pm and we were all looking forward to a good week together. We planned to sail north so that they could catch their return flight from Split. Both Faye and Guy were both really tired from work and just needed a week to unwind and relax.

Faye asleep on Deja Vu
Faye asleep on Deja Vu

We set off early on Sunday morning and over the course of the week we visited Polace on Mljet, Korcula town and Vela Luka on Korcula island, Vis, the north coast of Hvar and ended up on the mainland in Trogir, close to Split. The weather was good to us and we managed all points of sailing at some time or other!

Quiet anchorage
Quiet anchorage on Mljet
Korcula old town
Korcula Old Town
Vela Luka
Vela Luka
Kut on Vis
Kut on Vis

Here is the evidence that we all enjoyed ourselves

Faye on day one
Faye on day one
Faye
Faye in charge!
in the dinghy
In the dinghy
Dinner in Vela Luka
Dinner in Vela Luka
Faye and Guy
Faye and Guy in Korcula
Sailing
Gaining on the racing fleet

We had good sailing, swimming, bbq’s, explored some historic places, went wine tasting, played games on board and had a lot of fun. Nigel and I enjoyed Guy and Faye’s good company and I hope you will agree they looked more relaxed every day!

Guy and Faye
Guy and Faye in Vela Luka
Fish off the BBQ
Great fish off the BBQ
BBQ night group photo
BBQ night group photo
Wine tasting in Kut
Wine tasting in Kut
Swimming
Swimming with the noodle
Guy helming
Guy helming and Faye helping?

We certainly all laughed a lot and we hope they returned home refreshed.