Kefalonia to Cleopatra for lift out

Peter arrived on time to Kefalonia airport and we awaited his arrival at a new marina, Agia Pelagia, just under the flight path next to the airport. It was really cool watching the aircraft fly in and one could not help but duck as they seemed to skim across the masts.

Agia Pelagia, is quite small, with capacity for about 70 boats, quite shallow and a rocky approach, but once inside and tied up it afforded excellent shelter and the clearest water we had seen in any marina! Facilities were modest, the staff helpful and we enjoyed a couple of days here, to welcome Peter and visit Argostoli.

Welcome Peter

We decided to catch the bus into Argostoli , the main town on Kefalonia, some 9km distant, but after a hot half hour wait for the bus, we called a taxi, and yes, the bus and taxi arrived at the exact same moment! Marina views below

We shopped and lunched in the town, it was fun to look around and see the port again, which I am sure we will visit by boat another time. Few local scenes below.

Thereafter we set off along the bottom of Kefalonia and stopped over once again in Poros, where we enjoyed a good feast in the local fish restaurant half way round to the main beach area.

Ithaca next. Not much wind, so good to have a short distance to go and we anchored in a quiet bay for swimming and lunch before heading into Vathi and the anchorage beside the island. We were sheltered from the fierce evening wind which did eventually show up, but simply too late! Cooked on board late evening when it had cooled a little.

We enjoyed having Peter on board, and his swimming expeditions were well organised so he did not get lost! Mitikas next. The temperatures were rising, so a breezy anchorage was required to keep as cool as possible and, of course, a refreshing cold beer on the beach, before enjoying a second meal on board.

We did manage a couple of good sailing days with Peter, one in the inland sea, which was very pleasant as we spent a couple of days between Meganissey and Varko Bay.

Flags flying in Little Vathi on Meganissey

The week raced by and it was time to face the dreaded Lefkas Canal to head north to Preveza. Hopelessly chaotic and very frustrating as there was only one midday bridge opening we, and 101 other boats, had to compete for. But we made it and were glad of a good sail north before we fetched up in Preveza Marina where Peter was set to pack and leave us. Costas provided an excellent fish supper in town which was enjoyed by all.

It was even hotter; temperatures rising to mid 30s and being in a Marina was not a wise choice without air con, so having waved Peter farewell, we set off to Vonitsa and anchored off for a couple of days whilst we prepared the boat for lift out on 1st July.

Prior to our lift out we decided to anchor off the yard for the night. The bottom shelved steeply from under 2m to 20m in the space of a couple of boat lengths. Our first attempt at anchoring was successful but as the wind changed we crept into very shallow water. We decided to re-anchor which took several frustrating attempts in strong tide and opposing winds. Over night the wind picked up more and we spent a disturbed night on watch but fortunately the anchor held OK.

Sadly Peter’s flight was cancelled so he booked a hotel north of Preveza and enjoyed a luxurious hotel for his extra night before flying off next day!

Vonitsa anchorage
Outside Cleopatra awaiting next morning lift out

We did just over 500 miles this trip, not a huge distance, and did not sail as much as usual. However Nigel was pleased that we burned off the diesel from the tank that, once again, is showing signs of diesel bug contamination. We have another clean out job to look forward to in September. Can’t wait for that!

Kalamata to Kefalonia June 2026

We were not quite finished with Kalamata and ended up spending a fourth day in the Marina so that the engineer John Vardikas could come and do the work on the engine alignment.  He had finished by lunchtime so thereafter we cycled our bikes north to the top of the town to visit the cathedral and the castle, which had eluded us on previous visits. It was worth it for the spectacular views and some of what we found is evidenced in the pictures that follow. There is no doubt that Kalamata Castle was somewhat inadequate over the centuries and changed hands regularly. Little remains now but the town has built a fine amphitheatre among the ruins and we hope they manage some good events here.

Friday 5th June and time to leave and our plan to make Koroni was thwarted by the strong headwind. Instead we tacked across to the western coast and anchored in Petalhidion for the night which was pleasant enough but a bit rolly. We continued south next day and sailed most of the way round towards Methoni but sought the quiet anchorage on Sapienza, the island just to the south which we had not visited before. With 2 days of strong west northwest winds ahead we planned to spend our time in the remote bay of Porto Longos which afforded good shelter. Slightly anxious about our anchor holding, as the wind was promised to start over night, we weathered the battering winds and held firm, good old Mr Manson. Our excursion to the beach area and thoughts of a walk to the lighthouse came to nought when we discovered the state of the path; not for us; too much risk of jarred hips or twisted ankles! We must be getting old and in any case we should not have been there, the island is a nature reserve.

Next stop was to be Pilos, but the marina we attempted to tie up in was very much closed to visitors. Those that were there had made it impossible for other boats to moor alongside, altogether unwelcoming, so we sailed to the top of Navarino Bay and anchored off the beach in delightful surroundings; again a first for us.

Its no fun going north up this coast as we are going against the prevailing wind, so motoring was too much a feature of the days ahead, but we did have some westerly winds that enabled some sailing.

We called in at the new, still under construction port of Marathopolis and went alongside with a Polish and Swedish boat already there. It was an extremely sheltered location and worthy of a stopover. The town was tired but functional with some nice coast front cafes and restaurants which we visited on our 2 day stay here. Panorama restaurant was our favourite for salad and sardines!

A long day north again to Katacolon to rest over for more strong winds to blow through. Lots of cruise liners were in; one alongside the dock and one moored outside the harbour ferrying happy cruisers in the boats to the shore for their visit up to Olympia. As we have visited there a couple of times we decided to take the train and get off at Pygos, the regional capital, to have a look around. Busy and bustling, definitely not for tourists, but an interesting visit and we returned with all sorts of boat supplies.  The high spot was a visit to the archaeological museum which contained some very good relics from the Olympic era. 

On Sunday 14th June we made it north again to Zakinthos and chose the southern anchorage of Keri Bay, where we still are some 4 days later. An excellent anchorage with good holding which is just as well as the afternoon winds lash down the hills and across the bay, definitely precluding swimming, but the mornings have been beautiful and the swimming a joy.  We are close to the turtle nature reserve and the harbour here is full of rental boats for holidaymakers to go out and explore the bay, so it is pretty busy. Not much ashore to spend time there, but a useful shop supplied bread and milk to supplement our supplies. We are staying one day longer than planned whilst Nigel recovers from an unfortunate bout of diverticulitis, so all fingers are crossed that he will be stronger and better enough tomorrow for the trip round to the town and then north to Kefalonia to meet Peter who is joining us for a week.

Kefalonia to Kalamata

Our visit to Kefalonia, en route to Zakinthos, came and went in a blur as previously described, and things were slow to improve for Mo recovering from the bout of food poisoning she had suffered. Poros was a welcome relief and we enjoyed a pleasant overnight stay, with a good walk and supper at the fish restaurant en route to the beach.

In Poros

We arrived in Zakinthos as planned on Friday 22nd May and tied up with no drama. Friends Babs and Makis joined us on Saturday for a catch up and a delicious lunch at their recommended local restaurant, Kantouni, which we are sure to revisit. Nigel got Makis to take a look at the latest boat maintenance challenge and Makis, ever willing to fix things, offered to come back with more tools!  In the event Nigel managed a temporary fix and resolved the problem when he had procured replacement bolts.

Tom joined us on Sunday, arriving late after a long wait to clear passport control, in spite of his new Irish passport, so it was food, bed and an early start on Monday morning as our agenda was to get him within reach of Kalamata airport for his return flight on Thursday. We made Katacolon on day 1 with a good amount of sailing for him to enjoy, and Katacolon entertained with its pretty town, tasty supper, stormy skies in the south and the arrival of a cruise liner laden with expectant tourists wanting to go to Olympia.

Sadly there was not enough time for Tom to see the famous historic site, but he was happy to keep sailing south, which we did the following day. We managed to get the cruising chute up, with his help, and carried it a good way towards Kiparissia, where we moored up alongside in the harbour.

Not the friendliest of places to visit, but it served its purpose and was made special with several turtles swimming around in the harbour.

Wednesday brought an early start to cover more miles south. Alas no wind, so a rather boring 30 mile motor, but we enjoyed having Tom’s good company and he enjoyed being on the boat, a long way from school! Our last evening with him was in Methoni where we anchored, went ashore and showed him the sights of the castle, organized a morning taxi and had a Greek supper. It was great to have Tom on board, alas too short a visit, but it was also a great break for him.

After he left us we decided that we had been moving fast and it was time to slow down.  We had a good anchorage and the daytime was becoming pleasantly warm so we just stayed for a couple of days to chill out.  We even managed to swim a couple of times although the water is chilly by Greek standards.

We had booked into Kalamata marina for a few days starting Sunday, so we set off with the wind behind us for what turned out to be a roller coaster sail. It was a 30 mile trip with the fresh following wind keeping us sailing at 6 knots, even reaching 7 and touching 8 at times.  As we turned north to Kalamata the wind came onto the beam and the boat flew along until the wind just died.  After an hour it came back moderately but from the opposite quarter but we still had an easy reach up to the Marina.

Sailing Methoni to Kalamata

We are in Kalamata marina now for a few days to clean up, do jobs and stock up for our return trip.

We have met up again with Bev and Dave on Mohito of Poole and enjoyed spending a couple of evenings in their good company.

We’ve had the bikes out to make getting about easy,  revisited our favourite Greek taverna where it was lovely to be remembered by the family running it, we have done extensive laundry and stocked up at the nearby supermarket in preparation for the next leg of our journey. We enjoyed a cycle ride up into the town and Mo was fascinated to discover this solar powered public charging station in the park. How innovative!

charging station in park

It is disappointing that the Marina facilities in Kalamata are very poor and have not been updated in all the several years we have known them. Such a pity there has not been even modest investment here.

We met up with friends Graham and Marsha who live near Kalamata and they took us to a delightful beach cafe for a very relaxing lunch. It was great to see them and to catch up with their life on the Mani peninsular.

Good news is that it is warming up at last but it is disappointing the winds are forecast to be very strong around the Mani peninsular and look to thwart our plan to head further east for a few days. We hope to return west and add a few different stops on the way back where we have a rendevous with friend Peter in Kefalonia on 19th June.

First 2 weeks afloat in 2026

The eagerness and anticipation to go sailing is always cast into shadow with the hard graft of preparing and antifouling the boat. Thank goodness the polishing and a million other jobs were ticked off in March, but the bottom rubbing and painting needs to be done just prior to launching. As usual kitted up in yeti garb; boiler suits, masks, goggles, rubber gloves, we were ready and two days later, the job was done!

In between times we managed to arrange a meet up for fellow members of the Cruising Association at the local Greek restaurant Panos on May 6th at 7.30pm. We were pleased that 13 members turned up and we enjoyed a very sociable time, meeting most folk for the first time and now making new acquaintances and friends.  Dave and Bev offered us their redundant tap which was just what we needed as Nigel’s expensive spare part failed to seal the galley tap. Mo had to do the plumbing this time as the cupboard was so tiny Nigel could not reach anything.

We are thrilled to have the water working again, our huge thanks to Dave and Bev.

Quite coincidentally our neighbour from Farnham, Jo, was visiting their newly acquired Lagoon 45 catamaran in the adjacent yard, to do a few essential jobs and it was great to meet up and share some time together. Jo is one of the most resourceful people we know; nothing was beyond her capabilities! We were very glad when she offered us a lift into town to shop and we were able to reciprocate with helping her in the supermarket and loading her many supplies aboard her boat which is vast!

Once launched, the riggers came to check their handiwork and tighten up the rigging; the engineer came to check all was well with the engine; and the electrician came to install our new batteries and a new regulator which will hopefully solve every problem we previously had with failing batteries. We are very hopeful!

We left Cleopatra and spent a couple of nights on Preveza quay meeting our local friends; enjoying great meals with Costas and then Tassos in The Mermaid. Mo indulged an hour with his wife Noi from Laos, who has set up a Massage salon, having an Asian oil massage and very good it was too!

Monday came and we set off south to transit the bridge at the canal. There are major water works going on and the bridge opening times are severely restricted, but we managed to get through along with many other boats, it was quite chaotic!

We anchored in Vliho Bay for a couple of nights, then moved to the  IBA pontoon at Nidri for another, meeting up surprisingly with Phil and Norma of Minne B.  They had limped in to Vliho with a poorly engine and were trying to diagnose the problem with the help of the Cleopatra mechanic who was conveniently close.  We enjoyed a good meal with them in Nidri before setting off to Karnagio Taverna  in Vathi, where we tied up and enjoyed a very good meal on Friday night.  We had booked in there in anticipation of some bad weather which ended up being delayed for 12 hours.

The immediate forecast is grim and we had a very bouncy ride in 25knot headwinds and a lively sea down to Sivota on the south east coast of Lefkas. A handkerchief sized jib stabilized the boat but the good news is that we got tied up safely on Stavros’ pontoon just before several hours of biblical rain and even stronger winds.  Many lines were required to minimize the rocking and rolling of all the boats and there was great excitement when a catamaran arrived at the zenith of the weather, ploughing into the pontoon on the other side to us. All hands to help and all was well, but it is still raining.

Monday with winds abating we planned a sail across to Kefalonia and decided on Efimia to moor up. It was so windy when we arrived, mooring to the quay was untenable, so we anchored in the teeth of a Force 5-6 wind, fortunately excellent holding. In the lull of the following morning we approached the quay and tied up with local help. The harbourmaster Makis is not working this year and it makes tying up a challenge. Here we were to stay for a couple of days whilst very strong north westerlies were unrelenting. Unfortunately after meeting Sue and Graham from yacht Vivamare and being treated to a cappuccino at the local cafe, Mo was immediately laid low with bad food poisoning; the milk being labelled the culprit. Not pleasant and taking a couple of days to recover.

Next blog will find us moving south to Poros and our eventual rendezvous with Tom on Zakinthos at the weekend.

Getting ready for 2026

We journeyed out to the boat in March, before flights started up to Preveza, so we touched down in Athens and, after getting a hire car organised, drove round the coast towards Piraeus and stayed overnight in a very convenient hotel. It was cold in quite a fresh breeze but we ventured out to find supper in the town that evening and lucked out coming across an excellent sea food restaurant!

Long drive the next day but we succeeded in visiting the Mastervolt office in Athens to sort out the battery saga, and calling in on Almira boatyard, just short of Corith on the north coast, where we had a 6 week booking for July/August 2026. Having discovered that the Corinth Canal would be closed until July 2026, we had a need to cancel our booking and get a refund on our deposit. We were interested to discover a lively, very large boatyard with all the indication of doing very well, but we soon discovered that refunds were not on their agenda! The best we managed was to defer our booking to 2027 so that we could worry about it next year!

The motorway was brilliant and easy, the tolls mounted to about 45 euros, a fair chunk of that being to cross the Rion Bridge before Patras, and we were soon in Preveza and found Deja Vu, mastless as expected, but in good shape.

We had a week to work on her, the hull polishing taking priority, and with a suitable scaffold tower, the job was methodically completed. Nigel continued to swab out the fuel tanks that had been ‘cleaned’, fitted new solar panels, a new kitchen tap, lots of other essential jobs, Mo organised the galley and produced the shopping list that got translated into bags of shopping in the local supermarkets.

We stayed in Dora’s seafront apartment in Preveza and it was so comfortable! Modern, ace bathroom, superb views across the bay from a well appointed balcony, and all that we needed for a warm and comfortable stay. After 8 hours work at the boat every day, it was a joy to get back to the apartment, shower and relax.

View across to the yard from our apartment balcony followed by various boat work images but majoring on the reinstallation of the mast, and finishing with a magical view of a backstreet in Preveza!

The riggers were a great bunch and did very careful and professional work. Whilst they rigged the mast, we polished, cleaned and organised. Our new mainsail had arrived from Austria and that was duly stowed on the boat with the help of the crane that was lifting the mast back in. We are full of awe at the skill of the crane driver, particularly as quite a brisk wind had started as the mast lift began. It was lowered onto the deck with great precision accompanied by a lot of shouted Greek from the riggers. It was good to get it back in place with shiny new stays and fittings. Remarkable the ‘rats nest’ of wiring under the mast was reconnected the next day and everything worked. Amazing!

Preveza was quite quiet as the airport had not yet opened and not all of the tavernas were open. We re-established our friendships with our favourite places who were pleased to welcome us back. Unlike the UK, the prices were largely the same as last year and eating out is not prohibitively expensive. It made us look forward to the season even more. After 8 days we did the return trip to Athens without incident and flew home to some lovely warm weather!

We are now poised to return 5th May for the season afloat. It has been unseasonally cold in Greece with snow briefly reported in the mountains around Athens. It is, however, looking brighter and warmer ahead in the Ionian, so we shall see how we get on. With the world in turmoil we are unsure how easy it will be to get diesel fuel, but we shall soon find out!

Zakynthos to Preveza, a road trip and laying up

Our friends Brian and Michele arrived late on Monday 15th September, but they did not take long unpacking and settling into Greek life aboard Deja Vu. They have sailed with us many times and have given us unstinting help with pre-launch chores on more than one occasion, so they know their way around the boat.

We set off early the next day and had our first excitement unwrapping our anchor from our Italian neighbours, who had laid across our anchor when mooring up. After our unsuccessful efforts to shake their anchor, the Italians had to ship lines and come out to raise their anchor to free ours. Just as well we started early as we were later leaving than planned!

Modest sailing and some motoring took us to Poros for a pleasant overnight stay then choices presented to weather the next couple of days in shelter from some strong Easterly winds forecast. Decision making was tricky, but ultimately Ithaca prevailed and we moored on the north quay in Big Vathi for 2 nights. We explored the town together and managed a hard won BBQ on the quay just as the wind came up to make it difficult.

We enjoyed their good company and the time flew by visiting Sivota, Vliho and Port Athene before heading off to Paleros from where they disembarked for a taxi ride to the airport and home. The advantage of Paleros was avoiding delays at the Levkas Bridge. Actually the refurbished floating bridge had been towed back to Levkas the day before and was quickly reinstated. Paleros below in evening light, the sunset and the interesting wall art we discovered on the town walls.

Our final week took us to Varko and Porto Spilia where we enjoyed Babis’ hospitality although we were shocked to find there are now harbour charges due to the local authority! Babis was complaining that it was his lazy lines and his water and electricity but they didn’t give him any of the money. Nigel celebrated his birthday in the sunshine with a lovely swim, a beer or two and a hard walk up to Spartakori to get Peter H his Greek mugs. Happy Birthday Nigel!

The weather was in decline and storms forecast ahead so we booked into Cleopatra Marina for a couple of nights prior to lifting out. The storm came through early and we took shelter in Varko Bay which was fine apart from the late arrival of a charter catamaran whose anchoring technique was very suspect. This resulted in us both being awake at 3am when the winds came up, swinging very close to each other. Fortunately we did not hit and in the morning we both left.

We had chosen to delay our trip north due to strong winds that were forecast, but rain also entered the equation. The forecast was for the rain to end by midday, so we delayed to the 2pm bridge opening. The trip up to the bridge ended up being very wet and windy, fortunately from behind us. Full wet gear was needed along with lifejackets. North of the Bridge the wind was most fickle, gusting from nothing to 20kt and back again, and shifting direction by 45 degrees frequently. This was a measure of the unsettled weather we were in. Fortunately the berth we were allocated in Cleopatra marina was sheltered and we were grateful to get out of the torrential rain that had been falling. Happy to be moored up in Cleopatra Marina just prior to our lift out on 30th September.

We have sailed about 1200 miles this season, a record for our time in Greece and we have had pretty good weather right up until the last few days, so we are not complaining.

October 2nd and stormy skies over the yard as we set about the laying up jobs . Biblical rain and strong winds lashed the boat all night  and by morning the yard was awash. The cover was due to be put on and it was touch and go in between rainbows, showers and sunny intervals to get it on in time, but we made it with plenty of hired help!

October 3rd we set off after lunch, in the rain, for our road trip to explore the southern flank of the Pindus mountains.  We took the easy route on the motorway to Ioannina where we had reserved some boutique accommodation.

We stayed just beside the lake and the castle walls, it was a great central location and enabled us to explore the old town streets with our umbrella to hand! Plenty of cafés to amuse us and we enjoyed a lucky find of a rather nice restaurant close to our hotel.

Looking back across the lake at the city of Ioannina

Next day was much brighter and we continued on our motorway route, retracing our steps to Meteora before dropping down to Trikala which was to be our springboard into the southern Pindus mountains.

Meteora

It was serendipitous that we booked a hotel in an outlying village in the mountains, en-route to the ski area. We were away from the town and found ourselves surrounded by stunning scenery.

Elati was an interesting mountain village, where life seemed based entirely on subsistence and simplicity, which was refreshing and humbling. The recommended restaurant was very good and the atmosphere in the town was great. The main product on sale was the most delicious local honey! Elati images below.

We had to return to the boat on the next day, Sunday, and the real tour began as we took the A905 route across the backbone of this part of the Greek mainland.  It was challenging driving for Nigel with fast rising roads, plenty of hairpin bends, debris on the road from landslips almost everywhere, yet nevertheless moderately good road surfaces most of the way (Surrey residents eat your hearts out). The scenery along the whole route was absolutely stunning and well worth visiting.

All in all we travelled nearly 500km in 2 days and we feel blessed to have experienced the wondrous scenery, occasional mountain villages and the wonderful medieval bridges which are so typical of the whole region.

Glad to be back to Preveza and the boat yard, we have the final jobs to do as we close down the boat for the winter season. The weather has definitely turned in, we had storms and torrential rain all night, we could actually see for the first time how the cover leaks! Also a significant drop in temperature, enough to acclimatise ourselves for going home. Time to go, we fly on October 7th and we have left Deja Vu as winterised as possible until next year.

Zakynthos 2025

We enjoyed a morning sail across from the Peloponnese to Zakynthos, a close reach averaging 6 knots; it was fast, comfortable and fun.

We lost the wind as we approached the island coast, so motored round the entrance buoys and tied up on the west side of the harbour quay where Alex, the local mooring agent, greeted us warmly. This was to be our base for the next four days, so worthy of an individual entry.

Just  before we left Katacolo we discovered that our nephew James and all his family; Catherine, Thomas and Ben plus his girlfriend Ruby, were all spending a week’s holiday on the island and within striking distance of the port! We were thrilled to meet up with them the day we arrived and enjoyed a beer on board and a meal in the town. Life is full of coincidences, this was a lovely one.

Zakynthos town is a major tourist trap with many bars, not very authentic “Greek” restaurants, burger bars, fast food places, overpriced cocktail bars and endless shops selling tourist trinkets.  It is lively in the evenings but not as bad as some.  It still manages to retain some charm despite the hustle and bustle.   Fortunately there is an accessible beach a short walk from the harbour which provided the opportunity for a cooling swim.

We hired a car for two days, one to explore the south of the island and the coast that straddles the nature reserve, set aside for the annual turtle pilgrimage, and the other to visit our friends Babs and Makis in the north.

The south had some lovely bits, but far outweighed by the ‘strips’;  row after row of ghastly bars and burger outlets that were the townships of Kalamaki and Lagana, set inland from the crowded beaches.  We were lucky to find a super tavern above a beautiful sandy beach where we rested a while in the shade, swam and had a good lunch.

The afternoon drive took us up into the low mountains that run north to south through the island. The evidence of recent August fires was all too stark, burnt trees and acres of wasted scrubland.

It was useful having a car to visit the supermarket so we were able to revittal for the week ahead.

The second day of our car hire was to drive north, again through the mountain villages to Babs and Makis beautiful hidden away home high on a hill with views across to Kefalonia. It was nothing short of stunning. Makis had built his home in the 80’s and it carried a very Greek farmhouse, rustic feel, solidly built in local materials with the influence of Babs on all the plantings and furnishings. It was an oasis of charm. They entertained us to a delicious lunch and supper, (best Moussaka ever!!), a tour of Makis’ extensive workshops that Nigel coveted, took us sightseeing to the family olive groves and then down to the local port of Agios Nicholaos, which was quite an education.

The port was rustic too, not overly well equipped for visiting yachts and fairly exposed to weather, a no go area in any sort of Easterly. We were regaled with tales of family competition around the port, not much has changed over the years it seems.

All a delightful experience and we were waved goodbye to drive back to the boat before nightfall with armfuls of grapes and stuffed peppers for our next lunch!  There is no doubt that for us visiting it was an idyll! Thank you Babs and Makis for your warm hospitality.

Monday 15th September has dawned, sunny again, and we spent the day preparing the boat for the arrival of our new guests, friends Brian and Michele, joining us for a week to sail north. Their flight has been delayed so we expect to see them late in the day which is not so good for the early start we have planned for them tomorrow!

More on that in the next blog.

September Preveza to Zakinthos

We arrived at the boat early enough in the evening of the 31st August to reassemble the floor and table after the work that had been done to clean out the port fuel tank. This was for the second time and we paid for the privilege so we were pleased to see it pristine. All fuel tanks will have bio residue, which we had and it will, in time, develop into bio diesel bug if left idle. Our mission will be to leave the tanks as low as possible at the end of the season, especially on the starboard side as this will need to be cleaned again as well! With the advent of bio diesel, vigilance and cleaning will become yet another part of the annual maintenance routine.

We launched and went across to Preveza for a couple of days to get supplies and, importantly, to await the arrival of a new anchor controller as the old one finally gave up the ghost.

The Art cafe garden in Preveza

Whilst there we visited some favourite haunts and met up with friends, old and new, which is always a joy. We will hopefully keep in touch with Maria and Harry from Bonnie Ellen, another Sunbeam, and who live close to us in UK!

The Levkas canal has been a headache as it had been closed to shipping for some long time in the summer. Fortunately a ferry has been installed to allow cars to cross continuously and it moves out of position into the harbour to allow boat traffic to transit at prescribed times during the day.

We sailed down to Lefkas, made the transit along with a fleet of other boats, overnighted in Vliho Bay and sailed down to Sivota to a warm welcome from the Stavros team and a fun evening. Photos below show northern tip of Kefalonia, and a more rugged view of the terrain, half way down the northern part.

Efimia next, met up with Makis the harbourmaster, then on to Poros where we anchored off the beach for a very welcome swim before heading into the harbour for the night.  Had an excellent meal in a restaurant overlooking the beach to the north and out to sea in the East.  Watched a spectacular lightening display over the mountains of the Peloponnese as we ate our fish. Poros photos below.

Our target destination was Katakolon as we decided we would like to revisit Olympia. We decided on a long day at sea on Monday 8th September with only part sailing, the majority under motor.  43 miles later we were tied up on the quay at Katakolon.

From the quayside in Katakolon we joined the wee train across the car park the next day and had a super day in Olympia, visiting the archaeological site and the two excellent museums there, photos below to illustrate our visit.

Olympic Games Museum above, images below from nearby Archeological Museum

Our next stop will be Zakinthos Town, where amazingly we have a rendezvous with nephew James and his wife Catherine, who just happen to be revisiting the island 28 years after their honeymoon destination! Thereafter we have plans to meet up with our native friends Babs and Makis who have a home in the north (as well as in Sussex) and then, on Monday, our friends Brian and Michele fly in to spend a week on board to travel north with us on our return. More in the next blog!

Return to base: Poros to Preveza

I am writing this in our last week before lifting the boat out at Cleopatra yard on Thursday 3rd July. We are under the much talked about heat dome which is sitting over most of Europe, and we are lying low as temperatures flirt just below 40 degrees centigrade. It is simply much too hot and these next few days will be at anchor seeking out any breeze around and drinking copious amounts of water to keep hydrated

But back to our schedule. The last blog had us waiting in Poros in the Aegean for Peter Hornsby, our trusty regular crew and good friend from Farnham, to arrive.

On time, but with a noticeable stiff neck, he arrived somewhat gingerly looking forward to sailing!

Mo dished out the exercises for releasing neck stresses, offered therapeutic pillows and kept him off pulling duties for the first couple of days. He soon looked better, managed a fair amount of swimming and all sympathy was kept in check!

We were heading back to base at Preveza via the Gulf of Corinth once again. We had successive long journeys of around 40 miles each to reach the Corinth Canal and then well into the Gulf of Corinth and the delightful port of Galaxidi. We transited the canal early morning at 7.30am and had it to ourselves, quite a unique and privileged experience. Not a huge amount of wind on either passage, so the engine charged the batteries and the sails went up for short periods when the wind blew.

We were fortunate to get the last space on the quay in Galaxidi, so we were able to show Peter around the pretty town and walk over to the beaches for a welcome swim. We did not linger long and set off for the island of Trizonia the next day, where we spent 3 nights on the quay waiting for the wind to moderate and turn into the east for the next long leg down the Gulf. We met some nice French, German and Italian people on adjacent boats, and shared some good humour, especially when Mo caused great entertainment by very unceremoniously evicting a stray cat from the boat whilst everyone was preparing a bbq meal. Mo was dubbed a ‘mad woman’ when the water got thrown at the cat to French cries of ‘ no not water, ouzo!!’

Poor Nigel damaged a toe when he took a fall on the foredeck trying to carry a running hose and a bucket of water and it did limit his ability to walk any distance. Mo strapped his two toes together which helped, but it is still a little sore.

We set off from Trizonia in an easterly 4 to 5, heading for Messalonghi. As we approached the beautiful Rion bridge, the wind was accelerating in the narrow gap, gusting force 7, and the sea was the liveliest we have seen there. With just a jib flying we were making 7, at times 8 knots and reached our destination in record time.

Fast sail from Trizonia – serious business Peter!

We anchored near the town and went ashore for a meal in one of the waterside restaurants there. The next day we headed on to Oxia, for fish in the beach restaurant, we were doing pretty well. Pictured below.

We had a great sail next day to Kalamos where we found George, the de facto harbourmaster/restaurenteur, dismayed with the rebuilding of the quay and the 25% reduction of his restaurant’s takings. Not so many yachts this year or a boycott? We’re not sure, as everywhere else seems busy!

Kalamos

George is an icon and has made Kalamos a safe and pleasant destination. It seems his jurisdiction is being taken away and we all fear for what may or may not replace his experience and skill. We will keep a close eye on developments here.  In Greece these changes rarely work out well.  We note that the new marina in Nidri, completed last spring is still not open.

Our lovely meal at George’s restaurant was spoiled by the swarm of wasps that invaded our table, but the late night cafe we found later made up for earlier disappointment. A charming couple running the cafe played excellent music and could not have been more helpful providing excellent Greek coffee and creating for Mo a perfect real mint tea!

Peter had a flight to catch so Wednesday 25th June we sailed up to Palairos, via Mitikas for a swim stop. We moored successfully in the harbour at Palairos, enjoyed the local beach for a cooling swim, and went out to Thanassos’ ‘Tomorrow’ restaurant for a good, although expensive meal together. Scenes below.

Mitikas above Palairos below

Peter left at 10am next morning for his return flight and we went a short way round the coast to our favourite spot Varko Bay. It was busy and it was hotting up. We had to anchor a couple of times after it dragged in the weed during the afternoon katabatic winds, but we eventually found some sand and it dug in well. We spent a couple of nights here swimming to keep cool, deploying the wind scoop to catch every breath going. It was still hot! We moved location on Saturday to Vliho bay and had an unexpected blast of a sail to get us there. 8 knots through the water with 20 knots on the beam!

We are here to visit Nidri on Monday for some laying up supplies and then we’ll head up through the Lefkas channel to Preveza on Tuesday. Vliho photos above taken when we walked ashore to see some of the changes being made to the quay; still plenty to do with occasional sunken boats! We enjoyed a good meal out at Elena’s, one of our favourite tavernas.

Shots below from Ligia, at the southern point of the Lefkas Channel.

Our lift out is scheduled for Thursday at 1330 and we fly home on Saturday. With temperatures still close to 40degrees Nigel has booked an air conditioned appartment in the yard to keep Mo happy. Actually it is essential for both of us, especially after we have done the necessary cleaning and clearing to leave the boat for a couple of months.

We have travelled about 700 miles this trip and feel we achieved our ambition of reaching and enjoying a bit more of the Cyclades island chain. We have had pretty good weather throughout on the whole and most importantly we have enjoyed the good fun company of all our guests. We continue to count our many blessings.

The Cyclades

We waited in Poros for a depression to pass by and serendipitously Chris and Liz Jones, our very good friends from long ago, delayed their arrival to allow Chris to get over a virus.

Whilst waiting for them Nigel got to know the chandlery owner Spiros and managed to negotiate the delivery of a new fridge to the boat the next day! Incredible service; it arrived from Athens on the ferry and was duly delivered to the boat on the back of Spiros’ son’s motorbike!  It was blowing hard, the boats were bucking around, but we got the large package down below safely at about 8pm. By 6am the next morning we were up to install the fridge before the lively weather came back. It is just brilliant to have an upright fridge to supplement the good old chest fridge and we can now make ice cubes in the freezer. This model seems much better than the original one we had and runs on less power, so a win all round. Nigel’s engineering/DIY skills continue to impress!

Chris and LIz arrived with sunshine and light winds in their luggage to make a significant change to our weather outlook. We had a window of opportunity, without the threat of the Meltemi which famously blows in this north south corridor, to spend the next week in at least a part of the Cyclades. This is a central group of islands in the Aegean divided into a northern area, central and southern. We picked off the western most islands catching some from each of the groups.

 It was great to welcome Chris and Liz on board. They had not sailed with us in Greece before, having last visited the boat in Croatia in 2016 just prior to our leaving, but it was not long before they both remembered the ‘ropes’. We visited lovely places enjoying their good company, unfortunately motoring more than sailing, but feeling fortunate to be able to explore these Aegean islands in unusually calm conditions.

The pictures tell the story, but we started on Kythnos, which we visited in 2023, anchoring in the same bay as we did last time, then 25 miles south to Serifos, another 25 miles south again to Sifnos and finally 20 miles to Milos, from where Chris and Liz needed to depart by ferry to get their flight back from Athens.

Essentially the northern islands are volcanic, barren and rocky with few small settlements and little tourism, but the white buildings are a typical feature of the Aegean islands, unlike the Ionian. In the middle Cyclades, on Serifos,  more white houses were visible in the villages and lots of evidence of a bygone iron ore mining industry. Similarly on Sifnos, where a little more tourism was evident in Kamares, the port, and Vathi, the lovely bay we anchored in. Being time limited we only spent one night on each island, at anchor, but we made full use of the chance to swim in beautiful clear water, surrounded by stunning scenery and enough in the village to provide supper on more than one occasion. Finally we had a good sail down to Milos, arriving in the comparatively bustling port of Adhamas where we moored on a pontoon in the well run harbour.   Unfortunately the ferries approach the town fast and push a tremendous wash towards the harbour which sets all the boats there rocking frantically.  We had to take care that our mast was not lined up with our neighbour as boats have been known the damage their rig during the periods of wash.

Pictures below of Kythnos, Sifnos and Serifos

Milos is an ancient volcano which long ago erupted and scooped out a giant bay. The circular mountain ridge surrounding the bay is mostly barren but shows scars of open cast mining of alum, sulphur, barium and kaolin.  In past times the large sheltered bay gave Milos a unique and much contested asset, so there are many tales of conquests since the Hellenistic period. In World War 1, it was a British Naval base!   Many tiny pretty villages are scattered around the shoreline, most famously Klina with the coloured fisherman’s cottages. Pictures below taken inside the large natural bay.

We arrived at the head of the bay in the town of Adhamas, picture below.

Pictures blow of our day trip inland to Plaka, Trypiti and the Catacombs.

We had a spare day before Chris and Liz departed so we took a taxi to the village of Plaka right at the top of the island.  A walk uphill from the town towards the castle afforded magnificent 360o views of the island and out to sea.  The walk was thirsty business so lunch and a couple of beers was in order to aid recovery.
After lunch we walked downhill to the next village of Trypiti and further down to visit the catacombs which were unfortunately closed when we arrived.  We called a taxi to rescue us and return us to the port. That night we dined, courtesy of and a big thank you to Chris and Liz, in a superb restaurant, Mikros Apoplous, recommended by a local we met on the quayside. We were told it is where all the locals ate, and for very good reason!

Catacombes closed!

We were sad to say goodbye to our crew, but Chris and Liz had a plane to catch, and we had a weather window to do the 70 mile trip across from Milos to the Peloponnese, which we completed in 13 hours on June 8th, sailing for half of it, motoring when we lost the wind or it chose to blow the wrong way!  Before we left we re-provisioned the boat at the local supermarket.  It was a ghastly experience, the store was tiny and stuffed with people fighting over the last items of particular foods; the butcher, the only one in town, decided to fulfil a huge order for mincemeat at peak time so the queue grew and grew as she failed to serve anyone.  If ever a town needed a better shop it is Adhamas!
We made landfall in Kiparissi just north of Monemvasia and anchored for a good nights’ sleep before heading north to Astrous for a couple of nights. The fresh northerly winds made our mooring uncomfortable, but our anchor was well dug in and we were not going anywhere. We were most pleased to leave Astrous without any stowaways, as it was here in 2023, that we had a rat visiting our stores!  A beam reach across the Argolic gulf to Kilada was most enjoyable and we were rewarded with a lovely anchorage for the night. Kiparissi and Astrous below; we were reminded just how mountainous the Peleponnese are.

It was time to head west so we set off for Ermioni in little wind but as we approached the island of Dhokos the wind increased to a force 6 on the nose. The little sailing that we did beforehand then gave way to a final motorsail  across a sea of white horses to the welcome shelter of the south quay at Ermioni.

We are now in Poros again. We have come full circle in 2 weeks, travelled just under 300 miles skirting round the western Cyclades and eastern Peloponnese, the Argolic gulf and now back in the Saronic. On Monday we meet up with our final crew on this trip, our good friend Peter from Farnham is joining us here to begin the journey back to the Ionian. We are hoping he will enjoy the Corinth Canal and the Gulf of Corinth this time after his 2023 trip was rudely thwarted due to the inconveniences of Storm Daniel!