Preveza to Meganissi

One of the excursions we made from Preveza was in the free boat taxi across to Cleopatra Marina where we checked out their facilities and confirmed our lift out arrangements with them. What we saw was quite impressive; well organised marina and boat yard with clean buildings, a well equipped chandlery, a pleasant cafe and plenty of room around.

Cleopatra marina
Cleopatra Marina

We really enjoyed the town of Preveza with its long clean promenade, winding back streets, plenty of tavernas filling the passages, designer clothes shops and a reasonable supermarket. We found a delightful art cafe in the evening which played the best music; we were after their playlist! We will definitely return next time we visit.

Preveza
Town quay at Preveza

We loosed our lines and motored off through the narrow channel and sailed down to the top of the Lefkas canal. This journey needs to be timed to the minute as the swing bridge opens on the hour every hour and waits for no man.

A fascinating motor through the 3km long canal afforded interesting views of the islands ahead, Lefkas town and marina and evidence of the constant dredging operation which keeps the canal navigable at about 5m depths.

Swing bridge
Lifting swing bridge
Swing bridge
Up close to the bridge
Lefkas canal
Lefkas Canal
dredgers
Dredgers in canal
Lefkas Marina
Passing Lefkas town and Marina

The next couple of days continued to be settled and we started to discover a few bays and anchorages, having a go a long lining in Abelike bay on the north coast of Meganissi. We witnessed our first, and I am sure not our last, spectacle of two other boats getting anchors crossed. It did take about an hour of discussion and agreed maneuvering to disentangle them before all was well.

Nigel on Varko beach
Nigel on Varko beach
Mo
Mo at Karnayio taverna
Karnayio pontoon
Karnayio pontoon

The watch on the weather ahead revealed storms on the radar (oh no not again!) for Sunday, Monday and Tuesday, so we played safe and booked into a small marina in the tiny port of Vathi on the north coast of Meganissi which looked to be well sheltered from the southerlies to come.

Vahti
Vahti storm clouds gathering
On board in Vahti
On board in Vahti

It turned out that this was an astute move, because as the storm duly arrived with considerable ferocity; massive lightning strikes, ear splitting thunder bolts and monsoon rain, many boats were entering the harbour seeking a sheltered mooring, all of which were taken. It is crowded in these waters with enough space when the weather is fine, but not enough safe moorings when not. Planning ahead is essential for peace of mind. Everyone was wandering about in wet gear, almost like fish out of water, but we found plenty to do, including the laundry!

We met some really interesting people, some of whom come from parts of the UK we know well, some had shared the same Marina as us in Croatia, others lifting out in the same Marina here and getting a same day flight back to UK. It is a small world and sharing adventure stories passed the time we spent under grey and black skies most enjoyably.

We decided to dust off the bikes and explore the northern end of the island, cycling firstly around the coast to the next harbour of Spartakhori where we stopped at the Taverna Spilia for a beer and to investigate mooring options which were good. We then climbed to the hilltop village of Spartakhori itself to enjoy the fabulous views of the inland sea. The road then led up and down along a ridge to the main village of Katameri before a pleasant descent back into Vathi. It had been intermittently cloudy most of the day, ideal for the unfamiliar burst of aerobic exercise on the bike!  Photos below taken en route.

View north of Maganissi
View north of Meganissi
View over Spartakahori
View over Spartakahori
Porto Spartakahori
Porto Spartakahori
Spilla
Taverna Spilla in Sparkatahori
Moorings alongside Taverna Spilla
Moorings alongside Taverna Spilla
Spartakahori
Spartakahori
5 miles into the bike ride
5 miles into the bike ride – rest needed after the uphill!

Now are back on board, perhaps fitter, I am not sure, preparing to set sail again tomorrow Wednesday 21st September.

The beginning of September

Sunday September 4th we returned to Gouvia on Corfu very late at night to find Deja Vu just as we had left her. Joining us for a week were John and Ada Roberts, friends from Farnham, who were looking forward to the plan of sailing with us to Kefalonia.

However we had known before we left home that storms forecast would prevent us getting away in the early part of the week and it transpired we were very fortunate to have extra days on our booking in the Marina to enable us to stay on there.

We had arranged to hire a car until Wednesday and explored the island by land as gales and torrential rain swept over Corfu. The scenery on the west coast close to Paleokastritsa was mountainous and impressive, the beaches sandy, unfortunately deserted in the inclement weather!

West coast
West coast Corfu
NIgel and Mo
Nigel and Mo on the west coast
Ada
Ada on her Corfu sailing holiday
West coast
Paleokastritsa

We had a nail biting journey through the middle of the island as the roads through villages got narrow, cars were parked everywhere and sightseeing tourist coaches were trying to drive through against a steady stream of traffic going the other way. We reached many an impasse with some heroic manoeuvres being executed to free up some space. We were grateful to have a small car and as we escaped the worst of it in driving rain, it was clear there were major problems behind us.

Our foray north took us to Kassiopi, a pleasant resort, but we were not impressed with the northernmost towns of Acharavi and Sidari, which had an air of abandoned US outback to them.

Kassiopi
Kassiopi
Mo John and Ada
Mo John and Ada in Kassiopi

So what about the sailing? Beyond Wednesday the outlook remained grim, so on Thursday John and Ada admitted defeat and rescheduled their flights from Corfu instead of Kefalonia, a trip we were never going to manage in the time with the persistent strong southerly winds and storms. It was immensely disappointing for them especially and expensive, as it turned out, but we could find no alternative solution to get them home.

We did manage a couple of sails locally including a visit to Platarius where we enjoyed a lovely fish supper.

Fish Supper out
Fish Supper out
Ada
Ada’s good night out!

On Sunday 11th September we dropped John and Ada off by dingy on the shores of Garitsa Bay where they would be well placed to get a taxi to the airport. As they left, another thundery squall came in to the bay and we endured a very uncomfortable night .

Monday 12th September still had the risk of storms in the forecast, but there was a new optimism now for an improving spell of weather. We set off south, firstly 30 miles to Paxos and then 40miles the following day to Preveza, sadly mostly done by motor as the wind had decided to abandon us temporarily..

Here we are in Preveza today Wednesday 14th September, on the town wall. We have a whole new area to explore to the south and plan to set off tomorrow when we have filled up with water and food!

July

I am writing this entry in September in retrospect as somehow events overtook my regular updates and it would be quite an omission to leave out 3 sailing weeks in July.

Since we arrived in Corfu, it was clear that rubbish collection was an urgent and mounting problem. Piles of unsavoury rubbish sacks were accumulating at every corner, due, we discovered, to an age old problem on the island of the landfill site being full. It seems the authorities have hitherto been unable to come up with a good alternative, and residents local to the landfill site had had enough and blockaded access! Fortunately within a couple of weeks, it seemed to disappear, but we have no idea where to.

rubbish on corfu
Rubbish on Corfu

Right at the beginning of the month we sailed across to Paxos and anchored up in Lakka Bay, still as lovely as we remembered with azure blue water on soft sand. This of course made it a honeypot for all boats, so it was rather crowded. As new boats came and anchored ever closer late the second afternoon, we took one look at the sky threatening north easterly winds and decided the anchorage could end up in chaos should a squall ensue. We up-anchored ourselves and sailed back to the mainland. It was a cracking sail and we fetched up in Platarius later in the evening where we met up, unexpectedly, with fellow Sunbeam owners Walter and Elizabeth on their Sunbeam 42, Fortuna. It was a delightful coincidence and we enjoyed exchanging stories of boats and travels with them.

walter and elisabeth
Walter and Elisabeth on another Sunbeam 42
Fish farm
Fish farm on mainland coast

On 8th July we sailed further round the mainland to Parga, a charming seaside town set high on a hill and tumbling down to the shore via narrow pathways. The beachfront anchorage was bumpy until the joy riders finally stopped charging around with rubber crocodiles and paragliders, but otherwise we had a lovely stay and enjoyed the climb to the town. The views from the castle were magnificent and we found the very best of restaurants tucked away in one of the side streets overlooking the bay. Quite memorable.

Parga
View over Parga
Parga
From Parga looking out

We cruised around discovering Petitri and the best Moussaka so far in Greece, and finally returned to Gouvia to welcome Brian and Michele for our final week.

Petitri
Moored in Petriti
Petitri
Ashore in Petitri

Unfortunately the week ahead was forecast to be grim, and so it was. The marina was full, so we had to leave to find shelter from the storm elsewhere. We chose Valtou Bay and survived unscathed before returning to a reserved space in the Marina whilst the gales blew through two days later. Buses into Corfu town, meals out and trips to the Marina pool kept us busy followed by the clean up before leaving for a six week return to the UK.  Our thanks to Brian and Michele for their help in packing up and sorry not to have had good sailing this time.

Brian and Michele
Brian and Michele

Gouvia eventually found us a satisfactory berth, well away from charter boats and on July 21st we locked up Deja Vu and returned home.

Corfu

We endured two uncomfortable days of battering from gale force southerlies whilst tied up in the Marina at Brindisi and the long range forecast was still for strong winds. We needed a moderate wind to leave for Corfu, a 115 mile trip that we planned to do in two parts. Firstly 85 miles to the island of Erikoussa, one of the Diapondan isles just north of Corfu and then 30 miles down to Corfu town on the eastern side of the island.

 

As the two days of gales abated late on Friday 17th June, an immediate window of opportunity presented itself with light north easterlies forecast for the next 24-hours before the next wave of strong winds. We left Brindisi at 6am on Saturday 18th June and motored out into a glassy sea, setting a south easterly course for Erikoussa. During the 14 hour trip we motored for 7 hours and sailed for 7 hours on a fast broad reach, where the boat was making hull speed and more as she surfed down waves. We arrived in the bay to drop our anchor as the last vestiges of light were receding. A long trip behind us, we enjoyed a quick convenience supper (camping ready meal suggested by Tom!) and bed although the rolling sea did not afford much sleep! Up early on Sunday 19th June, we set off in dark threatening skies, but once inside the narrow strait between Corfu and Albania, the weather brightened and calmed. We ended up with a gentle sail into Gouvia Marina and tied up ready to check into Greece.

approaching corfugouvia marina

This formality had to wait until the Port Police arrived on Monday morning, and even then was only partly completed because the authorities had run out of cruising permits. We had to make do with a letter from the Corfu Police to vouch for our arrival and fee having been paid!

Noticeably hotter and more crowded in Corfu, we spent our time boat cleaning, refilling the water tanks, shopping and making use of the very welcome swimming pool at the Marina. We took the bus into Corfu town to get a data SIM card for our ipad. We queued for ages in the Cosmote store only to be told that they had run out of them but there would be arriving tomorrow. The mobile phone shops here are chaos with every assistant doing everything. Some customers take an age buying a new phone whilst other just want to pay a €5 bill and get very angry. We did lots of sightseeing in Corfu when we last visited in 2012, so check our blog here for more photos and maybe a bit of history.

corfu old town

We made our departure on Wednesday and sailed to an anchorage just south of the castle in Corfu town. Our intention was to return to the phone shop the next morning and get the SIM card. This we did after another very rolly night only to find unsurprisingly that the promised cards had not arrived. We defaulted to Vodaphone who at least had some. Greece is going to be a very different experience to Croatia!

achorage off corfu old towncorfu old town from the sea 2naock yacht club corfu

It soon became clear that there are not very many deep sheltered places to go around Corfu and there is hot competition for the best anchorage positions and harbour spaces, especially if there is adverse weather forecast which is what we were soon to discover.

We set off south for a few days and visited Garista Bay, off Corfu town, Platarias town on the mainland coast and Mourtos village, again on the mainland coast with the small Sivoti islands offshore and the quiet anchorage of Valtou just north of the busy port of Igoumenitsa. The anchorage here beyond a raft of fish farms was very remote and beautiful, spoilt only by its proximity to a mosquito breeding swamp! We went ashore here and walked over the hill to see a wide beach looking across to the busy port of Igounimista. One calm night was followed by strong winds that made the anchorage very uncomfortable and our anchor dragged. We quickly re anchored with lots more chain out.

harbour in platarias

platariasview of harbour platariasvaltou quiet anchoragebeach off igounemiistatowards Igounemista on mainland

Our hopes of getting to Paxos on this excursion were thwarted by strong southerlies followed by strong north westerlies, making Paxos a bad choice of destination as there is limited shelter there, so it will wait for a week and we will try again. The promise of calm Ionian sailing seems like a myth at the moment and we have joined the throngs of sailors jockeying for shelter! Returning north for a couple of days to meet up with friends Colin and Sandra Baxter who are holidaying on the island. Thursday 30th June we are in Gouvia Marina having the rigging checked, revitalling, having high hopes of the laundry getting done in spite of frequent power cuts!

Italy

For those of you non sailors who follow our blog, apologies for constant references to the weather, but sailors will understand that this drives our days, our thinking and our plans. The forces of nature are huge and need to be treated with great respect. Life on the boat is very simple and subsistent. We depend on the elements, worry about where the wind is coming from and how much of it there is, where we can get water (and wine) and the next loaf of bread. After the sailing, reprovisioning and doing the laundry are major tasks in our day. We read kindles in daylight and sleep in the dark. We are truly distanced from manmade troubles of the world as our exposure to the media is limited to quick fire bursts of internet time on our ipads in cafes sporting wifi, and the priority is always weather forecasts and emails from family and friends. The news takes second place in our sea faring world.

Since leaving in early May, we have had very unstable weather conditions and not more than 2 days of settled weather in a row in which to make carefree passages. Writing this from Brindisi on June 17th we are rolling around in the Marina with gale force winds relentlessly buffeting us and they are not forecast to abate any time soon. We may be holed up here for a while, so time to tell the story of our time in Italy so far.

Given the unsettled nature of the weather we chose our departure from Lastovo carefully to try and miss the frequent storms and southerly winds that had featured through the whole of May. The 4th June appeared to be our best bet as light winds were forecast from the Northwest.

checking out of croatiacruising chute to italyWe checked out early morning with the Police and were on our way heading to Vieste in Italy some 58 miles away. We motored for three hours and then some wind arrived, giving us a broad reach. We sailed slowly and then put up the dreaded cruising chute which gave another knot. The wind lasted only a couple of hours and then we had dead calm. Motoring on we arrived in Vieste at 6pm to moor up on Caterina’s pier in the harbour.

pontoon vieste

Vieste is a busy holiday resort with a large well populated beach and both new and old towns. The old town occupies the limestone cliff area to the south of the new town and is very attractive. By contrast the harbour area is quite messy and has many tripper boats coming and going to take tourists to the Tremeti Islands some 10 miles away. There is a new marina in the harbour built with EU money but never finished (the money ran away apparently) so most boats moor on the old piers on the opposite side.

new marina vieste

This was our second trip to Vieste with our first visit to the old town well documented in our blog for 2013. This time instead of taking the camera we took shopping bags to reprovision before our friends Sharon and Peter Matthews joined us for 6 days with the hope of a ride to Bari! Vieste has an excellent street market where we bought 2 litres of very drinkable wine for 5 euros and the best olives we have ever tasted in addition to lovely fresh fruit and vegetables.

This week ahead was plagued with thunderstorms. We had to choose our passages carefully and dodge the worst of the storms that were all around.

We did the 60 miles to Bari in two hops.

sharon and peter

Our first port of call, 40 miles south of Vieste, was the delightful harbour of Trani. The marina sits inside the harbour which is flanked on all sides by the old town with its many fine and interesting buildings. Towering above all is the magnificent cathedral with a simple pious atmosphere and mosaics and frescoes to see in the crypt. After our sightseeing we decided to dress smart and go to a recommended restaurant, that of Corteinfiore, where we enjoyed a superb meal and wine in the most delightful surroundings. www.conteinfiore.it

entrance to tranitrani cathedraltraninigel and mo tranimarina trani

Perfect sailing with a 20 mile beam reach from Trani got us to Bari just in front of a thunderstorm and we did well to tie up at Marina Ranieri just before the deluge. Needless to say the afternoon saw a long lunch and a siesta! From Bari we planned a few days to explore inland.

sailingnigel in baribari

It should have been a clue when we discovered the excess on the car insurance policy doubles for driving around Southern Italy. Cars drove at us from all directions, junctions were random and chaotic and parking was haphazard. Apart from having to drive on one’s mettle, it was a significant challenge to find any form of signposting and directions from the scant tourist information we had were woefully misleading! Southern Italy has some unique and beautiful historic sites that are kept well hidden and a secret from tourists!

Our first destination out of Bari was to Castel del Monte, a massive octagonal castle with Gothic corner towers and noted for its harmony of proportions, which crowned an isolated peak in the low plain south of Barletta. Our eagerness to explore the castle built in 1240 was thwarted by a local power cut, so it was not open the public.

We drove on the Matera further south, just in time to have a quick lunch and explore the fringe of this lovely old town before a massive storm hit overhead and we were forced to shelter in shop doorways before finally making a break for the car. Yes we did get soaked and disappointed the local traders trying very hard to sell us all umbrellas.

matera 2old town matera

Alberobello is a beautiful village and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996. We found a huge concentration of Trulli houses in a village that could have passed for Hobbiton and saved Peter Jackson a fortune in creating a film set in New Zealand!

The story goes that these small strange circular buildings of whitewashed dry stones with cone shaped roofs boasting pinnacles of various shapes and sizes, were built to avoid a building tax back in the 15th century. The King of Naples at the time levied a tax on mortar buildings, so the then count of Alberobello gave the order to build trulli ‘a secco’or ‘without mortar’, so that they could be easily dismantled in case of royal inspection. Once Alberobello obtained independence in 1797, trulli and subsequent houses were built using mortar becoming the dwellings we saw.

Alberobellooriginal trulli housetrulli housetrulli roofssighseeing in alberobella

Finally time in Bari to explore the old town, the centrepiece of which is the famous Basilica of Saint Nicholas, which again is documented in our 2013 blog. Whilst enjoying a cool drink in a cafe here we literally bumped into friends from Farnham, who were on a one week South Italy sightseeing holiday! We have constant reminders how very small the world sometimes seems.

cafe downtown bari

We said farewell to Peter and Sharon on Sunday 12th June having had a good week with them.

We continued our journey south to the new and very plush Casa Ponte Marina on the outskirts of the charming cliff top village of Polignano. By courtesy of a tuc tuc style taxi into the village we explored the narrow streets, bought pistachio nuts in the street market and enjoyed a beer as we watched the festival festivities get underway with brass bands regaled in different colours assembling in the main square. A purple capped cleric arrived at the cathedral to great rejoicing and later he was to hold a ceremony at sea accompanied apparently by a sacred statue of St Vito, the patron saint of Polignano, to bless the boats! We were amused by the female police presence, very cool! A wonderful firework display rounded off a fun visit.

polignano polignanopolignano streetpolignano cool cop

The next days with wind on the beam we had a chance to get to Brindisi before the gales arrived during the following night. It turned out to be the fastest sail we have ever done as we averaged 7.5 knots on the 42 mile trip. We were helped by a south going current of around 0.5 knots so at times our speed over the ground exceeded 9 knots. A mental note was made not to use this coast for a northbound passage! We were fortunate to have wind off the land so there was no fetch on the sea to make it uncomfortable, although the gusty wind meant we couldn’t relax. As soon as we got tied up in the Marina in Brinidisi soon after lunch, the winds increased to near gale force and two days later they are still raging.

Mo feels particularly poignant to be here as some 72 or 73 years ago her father was here during the war as Brindisi was a place he talked about often. There is an attractive old town, a lovely cathedral and newly redeveloped main shopping streets and quayside. All in all it is very welcoming, there are contrasts of dirty streets and poor areas beside the cleaner and more affluent ones. Very typical of Southern Italy, and probably everywhere. There is a noticeable population of north African street sellers trying to make some sort of a living, and many of the locals are offering hospitality to the tourists they would like to see more of. Sights in Brindisi below include the beautiful cathedral, one of the many monuments, the quay and finishing with the famous roman Appian steps, marking the end of the Appian Way.

brindisi street scenebrindisi cathedralbrindisi sepulchrebrindisi quaybrindisi quay 2brindisi appian steps

Our final sailing in Croatia before heading further south

Our first week sailing south behind us, we are setting off south again from Trogir with winds still set firmly in the south, which is tiresome when the prevailing winds should be north westerly! We plan to spend a couple of weeks revisiting and exploring haunts before meeting up with Tom for our few final days in Croatia.

On May 18th we enjoyed a fine beat from Trogir down to the north coast of Hvar. The pretty port of Stari Grad nestled in a deep inlet on the north coast of Hvar with a regular ferry service to Split, afforded good shelter from the gales threatened for a few days. It was quite exciting getting moored up in a strong crosswind, but we managed without incident and then enjoyed the spectacle of others trying. It was vital to be on board to fend off out of control charter boats but when we had yachts safe on both sides we felt able to go and explore.

In Stari Grad

stari grad

The town is celebrating an historic anniversary and there is much development going on to expand the quay on both sides of the harbour. We witnessed the flowers being put up all over the town. We have enjoyed a few days walking around the familiar town, revisiting bars and one particular restaurant which served us an amazing 3 course meal with wine for under £28 for the both of us. The bikes were assembled and we had a great day riding across the Stari Grad Plain to the ports of Vbroska and Jelsa, some 7km away across the peninsular. The rough road took us past the old aerodrome and a fertile valley which is extensively farmed. New potatoes were ready, vines were thriving and all allotment style plots were most carefully attended. A sheer delight for Mo was the brilliant display of wild flowers, Milk Wort, Avens, Vetch, rows and rows of poppies, and many others tossing in the strong wind. It was mostly flat across the plain, but a descent into the ports was countered with a steep climb back on our return route. Fortunately we had the wind behind us for the trip back and we felt healthily tired when we finally got back to Deja Vu, some 20km later. Memories of the bike ride below.

stari grad plainpoppieswild flowers

jelsa

Nigel decided to service the winches whilst quietly at anchor one sunny morning and inadvertently dropped a large screwdriver onto the cockpit floor which managed, against overwhelming odds, to fall vertically down the water drain! The debate concluded that it would indeed have fallen through and onto the sea bed, some 6 metres below. Rising to the challenge of retrieving the screwdriver Nigel braved the cold sea armed with a magnet on a long line. Just before he turned completely blue, he located the screwdriver and very skilfully lowered the magnet, made contact and hauled out the trophy! A job well done!

Our detour to Vis was not a happy one as we caught a south easterly gale followed by a thunderstorm whilst moored on a buoy in the harbour. Space in the harbour was restricted as the main quay was being rebuilt and out of action. Not a lot of sleep that night as we watched the crowded buoyage with boats swinging round in circles and other boats heaving on the quay at Kut, some leaving for safer moorings. We took our chance to leave Vis with a lull in the wind and had an angry sea to encounter as we journeyed up to Milna.

rain in vis

With a couple of settled days promised we set out on a circumnavigation of Brac which became interesting as we had not done this before and we discovered the delights of the eastern end of the island. We passed the famous stone quarries from which the stone to construct the White House in Washingdon DC originated, or so the Croatians are delighted to boast. We moored up in a delightful, sheltered inlet on the north east coast and fell for the temptation of supper at Pipo’s konoba, which was very delicious. We were treated to the sight of a long white cloud streaming across the tall mountains of the mainland which fell dramatically to the coast as we left early in the morning to round the eastern end of Brac.

braciski kanalbrac quarry stone for white housemoored east end brac 2morning cloud east end brac

May 28th and time to make for Split to meet up with Tom. He arrived on a late EasyJet flight from Manchester, so we took the opportunity to clean the boat and do the shopping, exhausting stuff in very unusual hot temperatures of 28 degrees C. It did not last and as soon as we were ready to go the next morning, normal service had been resumed with 17 degrees C and 25 knot winds for us to beat into.

milna to vistom on vis

mo and tom vela luka

We had a great time with Tom, good sailing and sunnier days. We visited Milna, Vis and ended up in Vela Luka on Korcula where he departed on the ferry back to Split to get his flight home.

From Vela Luka we had a fast beat, yes, again, down to Lastovo. We love this island for its beautiful remoteness and the peace of it is very therapeutic. From here we have to bid farewell to Croatian shores and as we sailed away on Saturday June 4th, we both looked back with more than a tinge of sadness that we were leaving Croatia behind. New shores beckon for now but we hope to return here in the future. Last night in Croatia, at anchor, below.

anchorage on lastovolast night on lastovo

 

 

Start of the sailing season, leaving Sukosan and getting to Trogir

The season started early for Nigel when he flew to Sukosan on the 3rd May. This was to meet up with the sail maker and receive and test our modified sails. In the event he couldn’t come and Gunter from Sunbeam was summoned instead, arriving only on the 10th. Deja Vu was launched on the morning of the 4th with assistance from our American friends Geoffrey and Giannina in berthing after the launch.

Nigel then spent the following four days until Mo arrived cleaning and polishing such that Deja Vu looked better than ever. Then it rained leaving a fine deposit of red dust all over the boat. C’est la vie! When Mo arrived we had a beautiful calm morning so we decided to rig the new sails in advance of Gunter arriving. All went well and the changes looked to be a great improvement. We rented a car and did the admin in Zadar and another couple of rounds of shopping to stock up and get the perishables.

During this time we met up with our many sailing friends in Sukosan, including Paul, Jane, Jeremy, Pat and Pete, Mark and Gudrun and Peter and Jess. We will be sad to leave then behind and have enjoyed good times with them.

On the 10th Gunter arrived and we went out for a test sail to check how the new sails set. It was a perfect day for it with winds of 12-15kt. Deja Vu was put through her paces and the sails pronounced good. Gunter passed on many useful tips on getting the best out of the boat and we enjoyed his company over lunch. Sunbeam have done well by us and their support has been appreciated.

That evening Chris and Liz arrived and our adventures began.

Our friends of over 40 years, Chris and Liz Jones joined us on Tuesday 10th May for a week to travel south to Split. Their Ryan Air flight was early and they were on board by 10pm. Keen and raring to go sailing, we had to disappoint them on day one and settle for a day sightseeing in the lovely town of Zadar, due to the miserable wet and windy weather, which was forecast to upset the week ahead.

The day was well rewarded with a good lunch at Bruchetta in Zadar, an interesting tour around the Ancient Glass Museum and a final excellent fish supper in Kod Guste back at Sukosan where we had the chance to say goodbye to the lovely family running the restaurant who had always made us so very welcome. Hugs and kisses from Antonia who promised to welcome us again when we returned!  Thursday May 12th we set sail, leaving Sukosan behind for the last time as we head off for new sailing adventures in Greece.

Leaving Sukosan

chris and liz in murter

chris swimming

calm over kakan

arriving trogir

farewell to the jones

getting the buoy on kakan

nigel and mo

Sky over Kakan

Sky across Rozognica

Time for Chris and Liz to sunbathe

The photos above show the best of our happy week. Unsettled the week turned out to be, but it did not prevent us having some good sailing in between the stormy bits, and we port hopped down through Murter, Kakan, Rozognica, Vinisce and finally to Trogir. It was a changeable week of contrasts. We saw sunshine and showers, the strong southerly Jugo winds, but not the northerly Bura; rough waters to sail in and sometimes smooth; we enjoyed a peaceful night on a buoy in Kakan and a noisy afternoon in Rozognica as workmen were redeveloping the quayside; it was sometimes hot for an hour of sunbathing but often cold for snuggling down below decks for a warm toddy and a game of Bananagrams, but Chris and Liz did get a very quick swim in the frigid sea during one sunny period! On our last night we walked the ancient streets of Trogir and enjoyed a good meal in Konoba Teuta, one of our favourites.  We said goodbye to Chris and Liz and immediately set sail south to spend some time on Hvar before returning to Split to meet Tom on May 28th.

Planning for sailing in 2016 is underway

It is only February, and storm Imogen has been ravaging the south of England. With 60 knot winds inland and 95 knot winds recorded at the Needles, we are very glad not to be sailing now! However we have Deja Vu very much in mind and it is helping to get us through a round of DIY home projects that we  have been putting off for too long.

Deja Vu’s sails are with the sailmaker for a recut of the jib and a repair of the main. Not a great outcome for a new boat, but we hope when they come back they will be perfect for this coming season. We are planning to leave our Marina in May and sail south, our destination being Corfu around mid July. We plan to return home for the latter part of July and all of August before returning to explore the northern Ionians in September. Meanwhile we are collecting things to take down to Croatia; additional bedding, a new prop for the outboard, lovely new gadgets we have collected as Christmas presents, almanacs for Greek waters, new head torches to name but a few. We plan to bring back some other things to make room for the new additions though, to keep our inventory under control.

End of the 2015 sailing season

Whilst waiting for the Bura to blow through we went on an extended walk on Molat, which we had visited many times but not had time to explore inland. To our interest and surprise we discovered that Molat had been the site of a large Italian run Concentration Camp during WWII and from 1941-1942 had housed over 25,000 captured Croatians and of which many had died on Molat. There were remains of watchtowers, derelict camp buildings and walls, pathways and possible burial grounds cascading through wooded areas down the hill from the top of the small town towards the east facing coast, as shown in a few photos below. One could almost feel the uneasy past, but now there were good signs of harbour wall regeneration on the east coast, plenty of brand new park benches and perhaps this is now a well frequented holiday camp site. Molat is a quiet and private island not very willing to give up its secrets.

Plaque on molat 1 molat walk 2 1 molat walk 3 1 molat walk 1 molat watchtower

We sailed with Pam and Alan to Veli Rat on Dugi Otok and found a sheltered anchorage away from the strong North Easterlies that continued to blow. Next day though, now Tuesday 22nd September, the day dawned with little wind and plenty of sunshine, so we enjoyed a slow sail south to Preko, arriving at the Marina there around 6pm. We were enthusiastically greeted by CA members Gillian Percy and Marjory Bradley and there seemed to be quite a collection of British sailors moored there. Preko, see below, is delightful and we had a lovely evening revisiting Restaurant Joso to whose opening night we had been 5 years previously. It was still good!

Preko

The last leg Preko to Sukosan on Wednesday 23rd September in good winds enabled us to do a record trip averaging 7 knots. A great way to end the sailing season.

Sailing on deja vuferry

Soon after we arrived in Sukosan on Wednesday we all took a whistlestop tour of Zadar in the last of the fine weather for a while. The famous promenade sea organ was a favourite to see and hear.

ZadarMo Pam and Alan in Zadar

Pam and Alan departed Thursday in torrential rain and another Bura. We have 4 days ahead to clean up, pack up, lift Deja Vu and winterise her until next year.

Although we had more disjointed sailing this year, and stayed in Croatia, we are pleased that we discovered several new places to visit and enjoyed some hot sunny days and good sailing. September proved to be excessively windy with Buras and Yugos blowing in succession. One thing is sure, variety is the spice of life and the weather in Croatia does not disappoint on this score! We are looking to Greece next year but will see how the politics and economics, (especially in relation to the marine industry and tourism) pan out over the winter before making any commitments.

September Sailing

Nigel and Mo explored Bibinje by bike before setting sail and were entranced by the skill of a kite surfer in the harbour as he sped at lightning speeds across a narrow stretch and turned effortlessly to tank back. He even stopped to talk to some friends on the other side whilst his kite loitered above in some considerable wind.

Biking to Bibinjebibinje 1kite surfing bibinje

He made sailing look easy and the very next day we set off north seduced by the very temporary southern set of the winds. No more than 5 miles later, the wind settled into the north, so a beat it was bound to be.

We spent a very pleasant few days in Molat, Rava, Sali and a favourite anchorage at Uvula Statival on Kornat, sometimes visiting places we had not previously seen. Views of Sali and Statival below.

nigelcroatian fighter memorial salinigel the giantsaliravasali 2statival 4statival 3statival 2

On Saturday 13th September we headed into Brbinj to meet up with friends Alan and Pam Penson from Lymington, due to arrive the next day on the car ferry in the adjacent bay.

Quite coincidentally we moored alongside friends Jane and Jeremy from Halberg Rassy Hebe June, Cruising Association friends made in Sukosan, and we gate crashed their evening to help them eat a most delicious but enormous sea bass at the very good Antonio’s restaurant!

We were delighted to welcome Pam and Alan on board on Sunday morning as they arrived off the ferry and we soon set sail to the island of Iz to seek shelter from the strong southerly winds forecast for the next few days. The winds did indeed arrive and kept everyone in port for the duration of Monday. On Tuesday we set off and had an interesting beat in 25 – 30 knots of true wind. Needless to say we were well reefed but were quite glad to make Lake Telescica, our next port of refuge for a couple of days.

DSC_0129mo pam nigel on salipam and alan and beerlunch on deja vu

We dinghied ashore and walked across the hills to the port of Sali, south facing and not a place to choose for enduring the weather, but we were entertained to many boats attempting tie ups to the quay in less than desirable conditions.

With the wind behind us for the next leg we made Rava and had a lovely overnight stay on a sheltered buoy. Our foray to find provisions proved rather fruitless as the village had very few amenities, but we enjoyed the walk although it did prove to be rather too hard a climb for Nigel’s new hip. He was then assigned to quarters for a couple of days.

nigel and mo veli rava

Rava to Ist, Ist to Molat where we are now. A spectacular thunderstorm broke over us last night and today we are waiting for a Bura to blow through over night. Some views of Molat below

deja vu on molatchurch on molatnigel and alan putting world to rightvillage on molatwindow on molat