John and Ada Roberts, our Farnham friends, joined us as Faye and then Tom returned to the UK.  John and Ada feasted on a fast afternoon tour of Dubrovnik  and we set sail the following morning, Friday 8^th June.  It was warm and sunny with just enough  breeze to sail down to Cavtat and this included a tack past Dubrovnik Old Town walls. Seeing this lovely city from the sea added a whole new perspective to its grandeur.

We made time for a swim in Tiha bay before going into Cavtat and tying up on the harbour wall alongside the cafes and bars. We all enjoyed a happy hour in one of them before eating a great chicken meal on board.

Big day on Saturday 9^th June as we checked out of Croatia and being told to leave immediately, we enjoyed a brisk  beat  down to the Gulf of Kotor in Montenegro.

Farewell to Croatia for now, we will be returning in a few weeks.

June 2nd-June 7th

We  provisioned the boat and got ready to go then headed north in a lively sea back up to Mljet. The forecast was grim and we needed a sheltered place to enjoy whilst 3 days of gales and storms passed through. Mljet offered shelter and the National Park to enjoy. We hiked and visited the Monastery on the island in the lake, we explored in the dinghy and the hardy ones went snorkelling. Most importantly we did celebrate the Queen’s Jubilee with a very fine bottle of champagne, courtesy of Tom.

As the weather improved we had a good sail to Sipan and enjoyed a gourmet meal at Marko’s Restaurant in Sipanska Luka.

From there we anchored off a beach for a day of swimming and sunbathing, before heading for Dubrovnik once again. Our last night altogether was at anchor in Luka Zaton, just 3 miles from the Marina where we were to deposit Faye on Thursday 7th for her return flight home.

It was not long before John and Ada, our friends from Farnham, arrived to spend the next week with us. Tom has a later flight and returns on Friday 8th June, when we plan to travel further south and out of Croatia.

June 1st and Tom and Faye arrived on time to Dubrovnik. By noon they were on board, pretty exhausted having got up at 4am to make their respective flights.

We spent the afternoon in Dubrovnik old town and we all agreed that what they say is true. It is one of the loveliest old towns in Europe. The Old Dubrovnik we saw today dates from after the earthquake of 1667, when the original medieval town was destroyed by fire. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site .

Some of the most complete fortifications to be found anywhere, and in parts rise high to 25metres. The fortress walls define the old town. We wandered around in awe of the ornate architecture and the steps rising up to many levels intersected by tiny narrow streets accommodating the local houses, apartments, shops and restaurants.

We climbed many steps seeking different views, but these were best obtained from the top of the cable car ride.

 

 

At the top, we found the fortress and a very poignant exhibition of the recent war when Dubrovnik was under attack from Serbian forces .  It is very hard to believe that this was barely 20 years ago. Then bombs were falling and damaging precious buildings and homes, now tourists flock to admire the same buildings, many patched up with European funds.

 

 

 

Korcula, like Hvar and Brac above it are long thin islands running roughly east-west, about 25 miles long, and 3 miles wide, so the route hitherto has been a zig zag one to travel south. After Korcula the islands are smaller and more sparse.

We have done a lot of motoring these last few days as winds have been too light to sail and cover the distances we have set ourselves. We need to make about 25 miles a day. However we have had the opportunity to enjoy the stunning scenery close to, and peep into the bays and coves around these Southern Croatian islands. It is all very different to the northern area that we are used to. The island profiles are comparatively mountainous and forested. Korcula’s wood was once famous for spawning the major boat building industry of the realm.

From Korcula town we headed south again to the island of Mljet.  The ancient Greek poet Homer writes about Mljet in the Odyssey. Apostle Paul mentions the island on his voyage through the Adriatic and visits the island on his way to Rome. It has a lot of history including roman ruins as well as much natural beauty The north of this island is all a designated National Park and it is not difficult to see why.

Feeling in need of fish for dinner we took the lines on a restaurant jetty in the pretty bay of Polace, just minutes before a random isolated storm hit us. Unfortunately a German charter boat did exactly the same thing before we had tightened our lines and pushed us right off the pontoon. The Germans did not have good English and sadly Nigel and Mo do not speak it at all, so Nigel’s demands for them to use their bow thrusters to take the pressure off was to no avail. Later we learned they did not have a bow thrusters. To Sunsail’s shame, a 40 ft boat with no bow thrusters in Croatia is not a good idea. A few huffs and puffs later and a lot of pulling and winching  of ropes soon had us all safely tied.

An hour later the thunder, lightening, rain and wind had passed and we set off to explore. We purchased the compulsory ticket to see the National Park and took the bus 3km north across the island to the beautiful inland lakes and forests. Lots of great walking around here and we spent a great afternoon exploring. Did not make the boat trip across the lake to the monastery this time, maybe next.

 

 

From Polace we travelled south again, intending to dip into a bay on the south of Mljet, but as we got into deep water we discovered to our chagrin that our holding tank was not emptying. Either the recently replaced valve had failed, or we had a blockage. Either way the course of action was not a pleasant one. Nigel spent the trip pumping out the holding tank and to cover all options called ahead to Dubrovnik Marina to book a lift out, the worst of all scenarios, to replace the valve.

We sailed into the Bay of Sunj on the south coast of Lopud, only 8 miles shy of Dubrovnik to anchor on a sandy bed for the night. Apart from the fact that it was hot and sunny and we fancied a swim, it did provide the opportunity to test out the valve. Good news was the valve was sound and Nigel  then successfully deployed the dinghy pump to dislodge the blockage. All was well, thank goodness. Just  before we left this anchorage on 31^st May, around lunchtime, there was a cry for help from another German charter boat. We had met them in Korcula town. It transpired they had something around their propeller and none of the seven aboard knew what to do about it. Nigel dived below the boat with his snorkel and mask to find a lot of plastic bag wrapped around the propeller. He rigged a knife on a boat hook and successfully freed the prop.

It was a lovely 8 mile trip into Dubrovnik Marina and we tied up before going to explore our new surroundings. The Marina is upstream in a gorge littered with small villages along the way. All very picturesque.

What a lot of excitement for one day. Nigel was exhausted and slept well . We look forward to meeting up with Tom and Faye tomorrow and having a Day in Dubrovnik.

We collected Vicky and Roger on Thursday 24th May from Kastela Marina north of Split. Not a memorable marina and not one to be recommended, but it is convenient for the airport. We did not waste any time in setting sail south for a pleasant overnight stay in Milna, a pretty village on the South of the island of Brac. Our return trip started well with a good lunch at anchor in Necujam on Solta, but the return sail turned uncomfortable as we hit unexpected  gale force winds about 5 miles south of Split. Roger and Vicky experienced some of the pluses and minuses of sailing, and tempered it all in jolly good spirits, as endorsed by this lovely photo!

They left on Saturday morning for the early Easyjet flight back to UK and we set sail south again in fair winds, or so we thought.  The unstable weather patterns over Croatia at that time were causing some very erratic local effects and once again we found ourselves in gale force winds approaching the north coast of Hvar. We sought shelter in the  uncluttered bay of Pribinja and picked up one of the few restaurant moorings, for the Ringo restaurant. What a find! One of most charming and attentive Maitre D’s we have ever had the pleasure to meet and the fish menu was equally delightful.  After a good night we continued our journey round the south of Hvar to the island of Korcula, and we stopped off at the largest town on the western end of Korcula, Vela Luka.  Unfortunately the local authorities are in the middle of resurfacing the roads in the town,  so we had a dusty view of it all,  but when finished it will be a good place to call in for an overnight stop and to reprovision.

Now it is Monday May 28th and we have lost the wind altogether. We had to motor the full length of the lush tree clad island of Korcula in hot sunshine, sunbathe and read our books! We stopped off at an empty bay for a swim, just to cool off, but the water temperature is still well below average and Mo did not stay in very long at all.

The last five miles were done under sail through the magnificent Peljeski Kanal, where the steep mountains tumble into the azure blue sea, to Korcula town which just takes our breath away.

It is a gem in the Adriatic . Marco Polo was born here in 1254, it is a beautiful Venetian style town set on a tiny peninsular and still completely surrounded by thick 13^th century walls. We discovered squares, narrow streets, attractive alleyways, winding stairways, tall towers, the Cathedral of St Mark, the town museum with ornate decoration on just about every building. Restaurants hug the town wall and make it all too attractive just to sit awhile over a glass of wine or two enjoying maginificent views.

You know there are just some places that imprint themselves in one’s memory. Korcula Town is one such place.

Stop press from NRMC

The above headline has caused a major EU rift with accusations from the southern states and new joiner Croatia who is leading the protest.  As temperatures in Scotland and Scandanavia soar towards an unseasonal 30^o the Eastern Mediterranean is shivering in cold and wet conditions.  A spokesperson for the Croatian government, which is leading the protests  said “we expected to make some sacrifices to join the EU and the cost to our people has been great with the imposition of new taxes as you can no longer fiddle your way into the Euro, but we are not going to permit the rich northern states to take away our weather.  Tourists are now expecting settled weather with temperatures in the high 20s not the low teens.  Normally we are facing water shortages but this year we have plenty of rain when it should be dry.”

Croatia has mobilised other southern states and has led a protest to Brussels asking for a return of their weather or more financial assistance will be required.  Brussels and many visitors to Croatia are hopeful of an early resolution.

A place we have visited many times before and always enjoyed, although it was a new experience this time with strong winds followed by continuous torrential rain.

The old town of Trogir, now a World Heritage Site, was once a Venetian stronghold made impregnable by impressive high walls. It was only a short walk across the bridge from the Marina we moored up in. The architecture is exquisite with even the most humble buildings boasting Gothic window frames and Renaissance portals. Peering through private doorways gave glimpses reminiscent of MC Escher’s graphic designs with ornate staircases winding up in all directions! Most of what we saw predated the 14^th century although there are some more recent additions.

We continue to get lost in the myriad of narrow streets, which is exactly what was intended in days gone by as it was designed to foil and confuse invaders! Nowadays at every turn are restaurateurs touting for business and there are some delightful and charming places to eat. Unfortunately this visit was less enjoyable than on previous occasions – the Deja Vu umbrella did not fit in the narrow streets and we did get very wet!

We were delighted that friends Roger and Vicky, staying nearby on a week’s holiday, joined us for lunch on board on one of the drier days. They left to explore Trogir as went out into the bay with 2 local instrument engineers to diagnose a problem with our autopilot compass. We ended up with a new compass, so great that another thing has been fixed!  Roger and Vicky are joining us later in the week for a couple of days sailing.

The bad weather did not let up so we decided to venture across the Bay of Trogir to Agana Marina at the Western end as it seemed slightly sunnier. Indeed we did enjoy an hour of sunshine in this pretty spot before the rain once again led us to baton down the hatches. No sign of much improvement in the forecast.

We then sailed off to Split – still cold and we had to don the wet gear en route.

Plan now, on May 24th is to meet up with Roger and Vicky at Marina Kastella just north west of Split.

All the anticipation, the preparation and the frustration of the weather was over as we freed our lines and set off in calm condition and sunshine at 9am on Thursday 18^th May. We found a cool Westerly breeze south of Pasman Island and had a cracking sail to Kakan, one of our regular stop overs. It is an uninhabited island that used to be called Children’s island, as in days gone by it was used as a recreational facility for the youth. Now it is a useful anhorage sailors as it affords shelter from most wind directions.

We had a fine sail until Nigel heard some very unnatural banging at the bottom of the boat. It was not anything falling off, thank goodness, but we soon realised we had run over a crab pot and feared for a fouled propeller. With reduced sail we sailed into the shelter of the bay, planning to pick up a buoy under sail – some feat that would have been, but in the event when Nigel started the engine, an enormous buoy maker popped out the back of the boat. We had control, so all was well. We decided to stay for the night and picked up a buoy the usual way, although it took a while as the buoy rings were so tiny, Mo could not hook it up! Suffice it to say, we got there in the end and had a happy overnight stay. The wind is still very cold, but at least the sun was shining.

Saturday 19^th May, we sailed from Kakan to Trogir and anchored up in a bay opposite the city.

Quite magical to be at anchor surrounded by natural coast,  within sight of the city, and Nigel managed a swim, just to check the bottom of the boat for any damage from the day before. It was clear the crab pot lines had snagged the keel , so apart from losing some anti-fouling, there was no damage.

An afternoon cleaning the decks and polishing, then dinner on board and an early night.   Alas the forecast is for more gales and lots of rain, so tomorrow we are heading into the fascinating town of Trogir, more on that later.

We launched on Tuesday 15^th May at 8am in calm conditions and it felt good to have the boat in her natural environment

Wednesday and Thursday though brought the dreaded bora, thunderstorms, strong winds and lots of rain, as well as plummeting temperatures.

We met some charming folk on other boats who had come in to shelter from the weather and found a New Zealand crew some of whom had association with Mo’s family. How small is this world?

We occupied ourselves with more jobs and as we had the car took at trip to Marina Frappa to meet up with Max and his crew for a very pleasant lunch. With an improving forecast we made plans to set off on Friday 18^th May.