We enjoyed a morning sail across from the Peloponnese to Zakynthos, a close reach averaging 6 knots; it was fast, comfortable and fun.
We lost the wind as we approached the island coast, so motored round the entrance buoys and tied up on the west side of the harbour quay where Alex, the local mooring agent, greeted us warmly. This was to be our base for the next four days, so worthy of an individual entry.
Just before we left Katacolo we discovered that our nephew James and all his family; Catherine, Thomas and Ben plus his girlfriend Ruby, were all spending a week’s holiday on the island and within striking distance of the port! We were thrilled to meet up with them the day we arrived and enjoyed a beer on board and a meal in the town. Life is full of coincidences, this was a lovely one.
Zakynthos town is a major tourist trap with many bars, not very authentic “Greek” restaurants, burger bars, fast food places, overpriced cocktail bars and endless shops selling tourist trinkets. It is lively in the evenings but not as bad as some. It still manages to retain some charm despite the hustle and bustle. Fortunately there is an accessible beach a short walk from the harbour which provided the opportunity for a cooling swim.
We hired a car for two days, one to explore the south of the island and the coast that straddles the nature reserve, set aside for the annual turtle pilgrimage, and the other to visit our friends Babs and Makis in the north.
The south had some lovely bits, but far outweighed by the ‘strips’; row after row of ghastly bars and burger outlets that were the townships of Kalamaki and Lagana, set inland from the crowded beaches. We were lucky to find a super tavern above a beautiful sandy beach where we rested a while in the shade, swam and had a good lunch.
The afternoon drive took us up into the low mountains that run north to south through the island. The evidence of recent August fires was all too stark, burnt trees and acres of wasted scrubland.
It was useful having a car to visit the supermarket so we were able to revittal for the week ahead.
The second day of our car hire was to drive north, again through the mountain villages to Babs and Makis beautiful hidden away home high on a hill with views across to Kefalonia. It was nothing short of stunning. Makis had built his home in the 80’s and it carried a very Greek farmhouse, rustic feel, solidly built in local materials with the influence of Babs on all the plantings and furnishings. It was an oasis of charm. They entertained us to a delicious lunch and supper, (best Moussaka ever!!), a tour of Makis’ extensive workshops that Nigel coveted, took us sightseeing to the family olive groves and then down to the local port of Agios Nicholaos, which was quite an education.
The port was rustic too, not overly well equipped for visiting yachts and fairly exposed to weather, a no go area in any sort of Easterly. We were regaled with tales of family competition around the port, not much has changed over the years it seems.
All a delightful experience and we were waved goodbye to drive back to the boat before nightfall with armfuls of grapes and stuffed peppers for our next lunch! There is no doubt that for us visiting it was an idyll! Thank you Babs and Makis for your warm hospitality.
Monday 15th September has dawned, sunny again, and we spent the day preparing the boat for the arrival of our new guests, friends Brian and Michele, joining us for a week to sail north. Their flight has been delayed so we expect to see them late in the day which is not so good for the early start we have planned for them tomorrow!
More on that in the next blog.
Deja Vu 
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