I am writing this in our last week before lifting the boat out at Cleopatra yard on Thursday 3rd July. We are under the much talked about heat dome which is sitting over most of Europe, and we are lying low as temperatures flirt just below 40 degrees centigrade. It is simply much too hot and these next few days will be at anchor seeking out any breeze around and drinking copious amounts of water to keep hydrated
But back to our schedule. The last blog had us waiting in Poros in the Aegean for Peter Hornsby, our trusty regular crew and good friend from Farnham, to arrive.
On time, but with a noticeable stiff neck, he arrived somewhat gingerly looking forward to sailing!
Mo dished out the exercises for releasing neck stresses, offered therapeutic pillows and kept him off pulling duties for the first couple of days. He soon looked better, managed a fair amount of swimming and all sympathy was kept in check!
We were heading back to base at Preveza via the Gulf of Corinth once again. We had successive long journeys of around 40 miles each to reach the Corinth Canal and then well into the Gulf of Corinth and the delightful port of Galaxidi. We transited the canal early morning at 7.30am and had it to ourselves, quite a unique and privileged experience. Not a huge amount of wind on either passage, so the engine charged the batteries and the sails went up for short periods when the wind blew.
We were fortunate to get the last space on the quay in Galaxidi, so we were able to show Peter around the pretty town and walk over to the beaches for a welcome swim. We did not linger long and set off for the island of Trizonia the next day, where we spent 3 nights on the quay waiting for the wind to moderate and turn into the east for the next long leg down the Gulf. We met some nice French, German and Italian people on adjacent boats, and shared some good humour, especially when Mo caused great entertainment by very unceremoniously evicting a stray cat from the boat whilst everyone was preparing a bbq meal. Mo was dubbed a ‘mad woman’ when the water got thrown at the cat to French cries of ‘ no not water, ouzo!!’
Poor Nigel damaged a toe when he took a fall on the foredeck trying to carry a running hose and a bucket of water and it did limit his ability to walk any distance. Mo strapped his two toes together which helped, but it is still a little sore.
We set off from Trizonia in an easterly 4 to 5, heading for Messalonghi. As we approached the beautiful Rion bridge, the wind was accelerating in the narrow gap, gusting force 7, and the sea was the liveliest we have seen there. With just a jib flying we were making 7, at times 8 knots and reached our destination in record time.
We anchored near the town and went ashore for a meal in one of the waterside restaurants there. The next day we headed on to Oxia, for fish in the beach restaurant, we were doing pretty well. Pictured below.
We had a great sail next day to Kalamos where we found George, the de facto harbourmaster/restaurenteur, dismayed with the rebuilding of the quay and the 25% reduction of his restaurant’s takings. Not so many yachts this year or a boycott? We’re not sure, as everywhere else seems busy!
George is an icon and has made Kalamos a safe and pleasant destination. It seems his jurisdiction is being taken away and we all fear for what may or may not replace his experience and skill. We will keep a close eye on developments here. In Greece these changes rarely work out well. We note that the new marina in Nidri, completed last spring is still not open.
Our lovely meal at George’s restaurant was spoiled by the swarm of wasps that invaded our table, but the late night cafe we found later made up for earlier disappointment. A charming couple running the cafe played excellent music and could not have been more helpful providing excellent Greek coffee and creating for Mo a perfect real mint tea!
Peter had a flight to catch so Wednesday 25th June we sailed up to Palairos, via Mitikas for a swim stop. We moored successfully in the harbour at Palairos, enjoyed the local beach for a cooling swim, and went out to Thanassos’ ‘Tomorrow’ restaurant for a good, although expensive meal together. Scenes below.
Peter left at 10am next morning for his return flight and we went a short way round the coast to our favourite spot Varko Bay. It was busy and it was hotting up. We had to anchor a couple of times after it dragged in the weed during the afternoon katabatic winds, but we eventually found some sand and it dug in well. We spent a couple of nights here swimming to keep cool, deploying the wind scoop to catch every breath going. It was still hot! We moved location on Saturday to Vliho bay and had an unexpected blast of a sail to get us there. 8 knots through the water with 20 knots on the beam!
We are here to visit Nidri on Monday for some laying up supplies and then we’ll head up through the Lefkas channel to Preveza on Tuesday. Vliho photos above taken when we walked ashore to see some of the changes being made to the quay; still plenty to do with occasional sunken boats! We enjoyed a good meal out at Elena’s, one of our favourite tavernas.
Shots below from Ligia, at the southern point of the Lefkas Channel.
Our lift out is scheduled for Thursday at 1330 and we fly home on Saturday. With temperatures still close to 40degrees Nigel has booked an air conditioned appartment in the yard to keep Mo happy. Actually it is essential for both of us, especially after we have done the necessary cleaning and clearing to leave the boat for a couple of months.
We have travelled about 700 miles this trip and feel we achieved our ambition of reaching and enjoying a bit more of the Cyclades island chain. We have had pretty good weather throughout on the whole and most importantly we have enjoyed the good fun company of all our guests. We continue to count our many blessings.
Deja Vu 
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