Storm Daniel & Athens to Corinth

What we now know is that the bad weather was due to Storm Daniel which tracked across central Greece with storms and rain of huge proportion. In Alimos marina we experienced rain of biblical proportions and a lightning display to outdo any firework extravaganza.

On Thursday 7th September we finally had a weather window to strike out towards the Corinth Canal, some 30 miles to the west. We sailed most of the way negotiating a ‘car park’ of anchored container ships waiting to access Piraeus.

Cool and wet leaving Alimos – happy faces!

The wind was increasing as we approached the eastern end of the canal and as it was late afternoon, we anchored to transit the next morning. Our efforts to pay online failed so Nigel took to the dinghy and motored a mile or so to the office to secure our booking for 7.30am on the 8th. Strong winds all evening and the added effect of katabatic gusts off the mountains all night was not conducive to sleep, so it was a wakeful night for everyone. As Friday dawned grey, we were called to transit the canal, cameras to the ready. An exciting first for Peter; it is a magnificent feat of engineering and it was most interesting to see all the remedial work being done to repair the eroding sides. The canal is due to close for the season at the end of September for the work to be completed ready for reopening fully in 2024.

Extensive canal repair work in progress

Nigel foresaw what was to come and in the shelter of the canal we took down our bimini. As we approached the end of the canal we could see a wall of white in the Gulf of Corinth, so life jackets were put on. Indeed it was a blast. 35 knot winds greeted us and we motored through tumultuous waves. We immediately decided to head for the commercial harbour of Corinth, just a mile or so to the south and although very bumpy inside the breakwater, we were glad to drop anchor.  Fortunately it was known to be excellent holding, which was just as well as it was to be home for the next 3 days!

Our plans to head to ports further west were thwarted, we were grateful to have some refuge. We were joined by several other boats who had made the same decision! As we took stock of the situation we were in we realized that the effects of Storm Daniel were not over.

High pressure over northern Europe was bringing hot weather to the UK and the low countries. A deep low had established itself over Libya and was stationary, blocked by the jet stream, and a high pressure over the Balkans was providing a corridor for very strong winds. Most Greek waters from Corinth and all parts east were sporting gale warnings for the forseeable future, and there were we, stuck in a washing machine of an anchorage!

It was certainly uncomfortable as the winds were consistently stronger that forecast by some 5-10kt.   At high wind speeds this difference means a lot.. Our only opportunity to move on came and went before we realized it wasn’t to be repeated for a while. Peter then decided it was time to go home so he booked flights for Sunday. We bounced around all day Friday, Saturday and Sunday, with Nigel only just managing to get a wet Peter ashore in the dinghy with his slightly soggy luggage. Not the trip ending we or he had hoped for.

The Sunday forecast did promise lighter winds, so we decided to make a dash for the west. Less than 3 miles out we had to decide to turn around. Gale force winds had greeted us with a big sea so we returned to the anchorage leaving us with no choice but to wait for the low pressure system to move east and fill, which it is expected to do by Tuesday.  Another boat that tried the same trick after us also returned but sadly with a broken boom, snapped by the force of the wind.  He will not be sailing for a while.

There is a small boat harbour in Corinth, but our previous experience here reminded us that there is a bar at the entrance little more than our boat draft. With the incoming high seas, we deemed it untenable to attempt. However, during Sunday evening, there was an unexpected lull in the wind and the sea become flatter. We made a split second decision, up anchored and ran for the small boat harbour, just scraping in and in the nick of time before the wind and sea reestablished itself and night fell. We were blessed to find 2 charming Greeks on the quay who took our lines and helped us moor up; Mo decided they were angels and we were mightily relieved to have the chance of a more secure night and, importantly, some sleep and then the chance to walk ashore next day!

Tied up in the small boat harbour looking back out; the anchorage we had left to the left behind the breakwater, the boat at a jaunty angle getting soaked with salt.

Today is Monday, the wind is still mighty strong. The boat is tied onto concrete parallel to the harbour wall and spray crashing over the harbour wall is drenching the boat as well as us when we go ashore. Nigel purchased some lovely seabass from the fishing boat that came into port overnight, so much preparation was required to get them into the freezer.  

After cleaning the fish and then the galley, we struck out into town for the inevitable chore of checking in with our transit log at the Port police. This is a real bore and unless change comes soon, we and many other UK flag yachts will just leave Greece.  The CA continues its campaign to remove this illegal document.

After 4 days of bouncing around at anchor it is such a treat to be able to walk ashore and a walk around the town of Corinth.    The town close to the harbour is quite pleasant with a good range of shops, cafes and restaurants.  Much of the area is pedestrianised which is rare in Greece.  After checking in we decided that we were due a treat and so went out to lunch.  Grilled sardines and salad washed down with Rose.  Things are looking up!

Tomorrow is Tuesday and we are hopeful for a weather change overnight. We shall see!