We spent 3 days in all in Kiparissia as it was decided to be the best option for shelter from the gales due Sunday and Monday. Sunday 14th was a sultry day, Monday saw the wind.
Had this account been written on Tuesday, the language would have been very colourful, but now, a few days later, it can be given a more objective perspective.
After the event everyone was safe and the boats were unscathed. The real takeaway from what was a very unpleasant experience was the camaraderie and pulling together of all the crews similarly battered whilst sheltering in the harbour. We made some friends in those adverse moments and the caring and concerned attitude of all nationalities was truly uplifting.
The wind strengthened from 3pm with the forecast 25knots. Anchored out and lying back against the quay, our anchor jumped as the wind exceeded 30knots causing our boat to drop back onto the quay, protected, thankfully by a raft of fenders we had deployed for that eventuality. Fortunately our anchor retook as we hauled it in, so we only lost 10 metres of chain from the 60 metres we had laid. 30knots became 35 knots and the committee decision of the 4 boats in the same position as us was to link them with a line to the quay to take some pressure off all the anchors. This together with keeping engines on and motoring forward kept us in the battle with the wind. The core wind was about 35knots but there were frequent gusts of 45knots and around midnight, it topped 50-55knots, almost certainly due to the topography of the backdrop of mountains. Unrelenting, the forces of nature were totally humbling and quite terrifying. We took it in shifts to take watch and get eye closure; sleep was a long way off. Finally at 3am the massive winds abated and we fell into a fitful sleep.
Most of the crews were decided to stay put another day. We left in heavy rain with another 3 boats to make more distance south whilst the wind forecast was very much lighter. Needless to say the sea state was confused and Mo had to resort to sea bands to cope. We anchored up at Methoni and enjoyed a beautiful sunset. Although sheltered from the prevailing westerly wind, the anchorage suffered a huge swell and took the adage of ‘being rocked to sleep’ to a whole new level which was most uncomfortable and not at all conducive to sleep!
Wednesday started as day broke to move to calmer waters and we covered 40 miles into Kalamata Bay, sailing past Koroni and up to the beach resort of Petalhidion. The first part of the sail was brisk and bumpy with the residual sea from the storm still running but around the corner and into flat water with a good wind on the beam we were hammering along at over 8 knots. Sadly a few miles north of Koroni the wind died altogether and it was back to motoring. We anchored in deep sand off the beach at Petalidion in a strong off shore wind which heralded a heavy rain storm accompanied by thunder and lightning. The wind eventually dropped and at last we had a peaceful, calm night and both slept very well.
Thursday into Kalamata Marina where we have moored up for a few days as there are Easterly gales forecast where we want to go next. Peter arrived safely and together we have explored the old town on bikes, blitzed the nearby AB supermarket who delivered to the boat, tried out most of the immediate restaurants and generally caught up on life in Portugal and Britain.
Saturday evening turned into a treat when Graham and Marsha the brother of Farnham friends Elisabeth and Paul, journeyed up from their home on the Mani peninsular to meet us for dinner. We had met Graham very briefly last year but other than that we needed to get to know each other. No difficulties on that front. Graham and Marsha were delightful company. We exchanged tales of olives and vines, sailing and putting the world to right over a lovely fish meal, I hasten to add, in the rain!
We are suffering a succession of low pressure systems and the forecasts change daily. This makes it frustrating and difficult to plan the next leg of the journey around the two most southerly arms of the Peloponnese. The current plan is to leave Monday 22nd May as the gales have given way to calmer winds, but not always in the most desirable direction. We suspect the trip will be one of compromises.
Deja Vu 
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