We hired a car for the next trip to Agrinio where Mo had more admin to do. The journey there, just 38km was surprisingly dramatic through a lovely gorge.
The business concluded we decided to take the causeway parallel to the canal we had transited to get to the Marina at Messalonghi. It was a fascinating 4km drive and we were rewarded with magnificent views across the salt flats, sightings of many flamingoes busy feeding, pelicans in the distance, egrets and many other seabirds, not to mention the oddity of cars parked on narrow tracks branching off the causeway at various intervals.
At the end we found the beach, well protected from the sea beyond by a breakwater which provided safe bathing as well as the services of a lifeguard in a California style lookout.
Having enjoyed a very pleasant lunch at one of the cafes there we visited the salt museum. 65% of Greek salt is produced here in Messolonghi. The industry has long been a mainstay of the local economy and even now ships come up the canal to the dock during the summer months to load up and distribute to other parts of Greece and beyond. We found out that salt comes in many shapes, sizes and colours but here at Messolonghi, it is pure white and quite crystalline.
Time to move on, we had a westerly wind forecast, so we slipped lines at 730am on Friday 16th September to head further into the Gulf of Corinth. An uneventful motor to the Rion Bridge was followed by a moderate goose wing sail. It soon became clear we needed to lose the main as the winds were increasing from the Force 4 forecast. Before long we had 25 knots over the stern and soon after that became 30knots. With just the jib, reefed as the wind increased, the boat was surfing down the waves at 9 knots. Nigel did see 10kt on the log very briefly.
We were glad to make Trizonia and find shelter from the hefty sea, but the wind did not lapse and we had an exciting time mooring up side to the concrete quay in the yacht basin. Mo was greatly relieved to see 4 guys on the quay ready to take our lines and help us to moor up.
We stayed on Trizonia for a couple of days whilst the strong winds blew and spent the time exploring paths to take us to the southern tip of the island where we found a great beach and enjoyed a picnic and swim. That evening we met Dick and Amanda from Thalassa of Ipswich who had berthed at the end of the same pier as us. It turned out they were on a trip around the Peloponnese before the end of October. After a “get to know you” beer or two we were invited to join them on their boat for dinner which comprised some of the magnificent Tuna they had caught the day before. We had a most enjoyable evening with good food, good conversation and wine.
Next stop was Galaxhidi, a pretty port 20miles further into the Gulf that we had visited before in 2018 and from where we had hired a car to visit Delphi. This time it was a stopover to swim and further explore the pretty town. The local museum, claiming to the first museum in Greece(?!), opening in 1928, charted the history of Galaxhidi as a thriving ship building port, responsible for building and commissioning many commercial trade vessels in the 19th century. Unfortunately, being unable to embrace the change to steel construction and mechanization, the industry ended as the 20th century unfolded. The museum is a sympathetic illustration of the struggles the town endured, being razed to the ground on more than one occasion by invading Turkish forces. It also houses ancient archeological remains, an amazing art collection depicting ships built locally and an interesting philatetic collection of universal shipping history from across the world; an eclectic and fascinating display!
Dick and Amanda were moored near to us and we ended up in a café with them, having lunch and watching the funeral of our Queen Elizabeth on 19th September, on Amanda’s ipad. In Trizonia we had also met a lovely German couple Hans and Anne, whose life’s philosophies resonated so closely with our own. It is indeed a privilege to share their company in passing.
We are now back in Messalonghi after a 35 mile sail in a lively downwind Force 5/6, with nothing but a partial jib to make record time.
Respite tonight and off again early tomorrow, 23rd September, to head back into the Ionian for the final week of our sailing this month, indeed, this year.
Deja Vu 
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