I completely forgot to mention in the last blog that we saw a seal for the first time in the Mediterranean! We were not quick enough to get a photo, but it was a memorable sight to behold, snuffling as it swam casually towards the beach late in the day. We had been just leaving the anchorage on Ithaca and there she was rolling on the waves heading into shore. Having investigated ‘Mediterranean seals’ this sighting was almost certainly of a female Monk seal, being brown grey in colour. The males are black. These seals were once found regularly throughout the Med, but now are quite rare. The Greeks, however, do pride themselves on having been successful at protecting the species and removing them from the ‘critically endangered’ world marine animals list. Ancient Greeks apparently treasured the seals even believing they were protected by gods Poseidon and Apollo because of their love for the sea and their seeming worship of the sun!
Back to our itinerary, we sailed up the steep sided channel between Ithaca and Kefalonia passing many tiny bays indented on the Kefalonia East coast. We called into one of the uncharted bays, found some sand and dropped the anchor for a swim. It was absolutely beautiful, deserted, apart from a couple of goats tripping along under the pine trees that stood behind the olive grove at the back of the beach. Peering through the binoculars at the beach I found a sign declaring this to be a site used in the famous film Captain Corelli’s Mandolin! We may have to watch the film again to see if we can spot it!
The weather was on the change; the week ahead was looking unsettled, cloudier, cooler and windier. From Kefalonia we arrived in Vliho Bay late in the day so we anchored and had supper ashore in Dimitri’s Taverna. We had been sole visitors earlier in the season and this occasion was not much different.
A good sail across the top of Meganissi took us to Port Atheni, a favourite anchorage and here we contemplated sitting out the F6 north westerly’s promised for the next day. In the end we decided against that idea and headed back to the safe anchorage of Vliho where the mud sucks the anchor fast. Good job as we stayed on board and clocked a regular 30knots over the deck.
Our last night in the Inland Sea had to be Varko Bay and after the windy night in Vliho Bay came a bright and warmer day. We had a good sail across to Varko, anchored swam and enjoyed a magical evening with boat lights, distant town lights and stars above twinkling all around us.
We are now in Preveza doing the jobs; engine has been serviced; decks have been treated with preservative and fungicide; the jib is down and bagged up; the cleaning underway. We have explored the town a bit more, walked to the local sandy beach adjacent to the town quay and enjoyed the days. Unfortunately the nightlife on the quay has been far too noisy for us; we had to decamp to the front berth to get any sleep!

September 26th is a Big Day. Nigel celebrates and commiserates his big O birthday. We did manage a couple of hours on the beach and had a very welcome swim.

Then tomorrow on Monday 27th we lift out, pack up, winterize the engine, cover Déjà Vu and fly home on Thursday 30th.
I have calculated that we have travelled 741 miles this year all around the Ionian from Corfu to the Gulf of Corinth and much in between. It’s been great, memorably hot and noticeably more busy as September has drawn to a close. Where next in 2022?









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