It is time for a chart of the Peleponnese to help you see where we have been and where we are going, clockwise round! Our track is shown through the Gulf of Corinth, along the top, east of Kefalonia, through the Corinth canal at the eastern end. Our final destination is Kalamata at the top of bay between the two western fingers of the Peleponnese, but at this point we are in Monemvasia, shown by the red arrow.
We set off from Ermioni on the eastern most penisular above, on Wednesday 20th June and had a great 10 mile sail with 12-14 knots behind us, on the beam then on the nose, past the island of Spetses to Porto Heli, a reknowned safe place for yachtsmen with a sheltered anchorage. That was really the best part of it as our dinghy ashore reminded us that this port with its part built new marina (familiar story?) left a few things to be desired. We were now in serious weather forecasting mode to plan the journey west, so took advantage, eventually, of wifi in the local bars.
We did not stay long in Porto Heli having anchored off shore and make a quick departure on Thursday 21st striking west to Leonidion on the Elous peninsular. A really warm welcome here from the helpful young harbour master and also from Michael, the proprietor of one of the local restaurants who bequeathed a carrier bag full of organic tomatoes and cucumbers, locally grown we were told. He certainly knew how to secure evening customers. Food was good there!
We had laid 40m of anchor chain and later on we wished for more as the black clouds gathered over the towering mountains in front of us and let loose 25-30 knots westerly winds pounding the moored boats back into the quay. A couple of boats lost their anchor holds and slewed sideways into other boats. We had our engine on and motored forwards for the duration of the onslaught, luckily only about an hour. It was the sort of excitement one can do without, but glad to say no one seemed to suffer any damage. Needless to say as we had decided to spend another day here, we re-anchored the next day and laid closer to 70m of anchor chain in readiness.
Unfortunately our study of the weather systems are seriously depressing with very strong winds forecast in the south for the whole week ahead, severely restricting progress with our passage. Our vision of pottering around these parts, anchoring in the beautiful bays, swimming and enjoying the stunning scenery is rapidly receding, as we plan now how to get from one bolt hole to another. The problem being that there are not many of these.
We spent a couple of days in Leonidhion and took a taxi ride to the local tourist attraction that was a stunning monastery high up in the surrounding mountains. This took us through the local village of Leonidhion which was charming and although the monastery is not a working concern, it held quite a special atmosphere and claimed some significant donations from most . We came away with a jar of local honey and some great photos.
We took the opportunity of a gap in the weather and some reasonable northerly winds to go south . Leaving late just after 10am we did have a cracking sail in an albeit lumpy sea and averaging over 6knots under sail we arrived in Monemvasia soon after 3pm, having covered 32 miles. Not bad we thought. We sailed past the huge rock that is Monemvasia, with an amazing ancient village clinging to its seaward side. It is clearly a must see place, so we look forward to exploring it soon.
The harbour was busy with charter boats so we were fortunate to moor up alonside yacht Eira, belonging to a very friendly and welcoming German couple, Eva and Frank, knowing that when the charter boats departed the next day we would have the opportunity to go alongside the harbour wall behind Eira. There was quite a premium on this position, so luck seemed to be with us. Safely tied up on the harbour wall on Monday 25th June, we soon worked out that we would be here to stay, storm bound, for about a week.
Deja Vu 
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